A Bond So Special - It Is Supernatural!

Even as I was chasing birds - the feathered variety - in the wilderness of Yongkala in the east of the country …. someone in Thimphu even without so much as a by-your-leave, decided to nominate me as a Member of the Rotary Club of Thimphu that was being formed under the aegis of the RGoB in April of 2012. To this day I have no idea who nominated me – but I remain grateful because, as a consequence, I have grown as a human being - I have met people around the world who helped me redefine my views on so many issues. Even more important I met a hoard of kind and generous people spread across the globe - people with whom I remain connected to this day - many years after I hung up my boots at the Club - people who keep alive the Rotary spirit in me even while I no longer play an active part in Rotary activities.

One such person is Past President of Rotary Club of Honolulu Sunset, Hawaii – PP Rtn. James Ham, MD. Through his support, a Rotary Global Grant Project was implemented in Bhutan in the year 2022 - related to health and safety - in collaboration with Rotary Club of Thimphu and Khesar Gyalpo University of Medical Sciences (KGUMS).

In truth, the connection of PP Rtn. James Ham with Bhutan goes beyond his spirit of giving - his bond with the country transcends the normal - it is in the realm of the supernatural! Please read the following why his bond with Bhutan is special:

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2019/08/the-charmed-phallus-of-chimi-lhakhang.html

Master Kinley Jin Ham is now almost 6 years old - please look at the progression of the hulking Drukpa Kuenleg in Hawaii, USA over the years:

I am hoping that he would one day pay a visit to Bhutan.

Dating The Death Of Pemi Tshewang Tashi

Upon his retirement from the post of Trongsa Poenlop in 1867, Jigme Namgyel put his elder brother Doongkar Gyeltshen on the seat as the new 18th Trongsa Poenlop - with the tacit understanding that after three years, the post would be surrendered to Jakar Poenlop Pema Tenzin - elder brother of his wife - Pema Choeki.

When the time came, Doongkar Gyaltshen reneged on the agreement and refused to surrender the seat - resulting in a long-drawn conflict between the two. It went on for years. Finally, it appears that in 1879, matters came to a head and Jakar Poenlop Pema Tenzin made a final push to claim what was rightfully his. Doongkar Gyaltshen sought the help of Wangzop Angdruk Nyim who dispatched his army headed by his most trusted Zimpoen - Pemi Tshewang Tashi - to fight alongside the forces of Trongsa Poenlop.

Image of Pemi Tshewang Tashi conceived by iBEST

Unfortunately, the combined forces of Trongsa Poenlop and Wangzop Angdruk Nyim was no match against the superior numbers of Jakar Poenlop Pema Tenzin’s forces - they were completely routed.

To escape the shame of capture by enemy forces, Pemi Tshewang Tashi choose to end his life by jumping off the Thomangdrak cliff – located across the ravine facing Trongsa Dzong.

This is irrefutable proof that Pemi Tshewang died in the year 1879.

The same year, the victorious Jakar Poenlop Pema Tenzin finally ascended the much-coveted seat of Trongsa Poenlop. But he did not seat there for long. In 1882 - just three years later he was murdered - in retaliation for his failure to honor a promise that he had made to one of his staunch supporters.

NOTE AA:  Most writers designate Pema Tenzin as Jakar Dzongpoen. However, that cannot be right. In defense I offer the following reason:

1. The central government in Punakha had to intervene to negotiate a settlement between the warring Jakar Dzongpoen Tsundru Gyaltshen and Trongsa Poenlop Jigme Namgyel - consequent upon Jigme Namgyel refusing to surrender the post of Trongsa Poenlop. Within the terms of the truce - the post of the seat holder of Jakar Dzong was elevated to that of a Poenlop as of 1857. Thus, in my opinion, Pema Tenzin would have been designated as a Poenlop and not as a Dzongpoen - particularly considering that he was Desi Jigme Namgyal’s brother-in-law.

NOTE BB: The reason why this article is listed under "History of Money" is explained in my article posted earlier to this one.

Portion of the Family Tree of Wangchuck Dynasty where Pema Tenzin is clearly designated as Poenlop. Extracted from:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wangchuck_dynasty#/media/File:Royal_Genealogy.jpg

The Magnificent Norzang Phoobchen

In his article titled “Coinage in Bhutan”, the coin collector and historian Mr. Nicholas Rhodes credits Trongsa Poenlop Jigme Namgyel as the originator of the incomparable coin affectionately nick-named "Norzang Phoobchen". These uncommonly large and beautiful coins were hammered in silver as well as in copper. They are among the very few of Bhutan’s hammered coins that bear 100% Bhutanese motifs – 95% of our other ancient coins bear Bengali motifs and alphabets.

Quoting late Karma Gayleg, Mr. Nicholas Rhodes writes that the coins were hammered for Trongsa Poenlop Jigme Namgyel by Muslim metal workers - supposedly captured by him from Cooch Behar. I am not too sure of that – but unless something else more definite emerges, I am willing to accept that it is very likely that Jigme Namgyel may have produced those coins. Also, Nicholas Rhodes goes on to say that Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck (son of Jigme Namgyel) continued to hammer the Norzang Phoobchen at Yudrong Choeling – even after he became King. Ofcourse, that would be until he introduced his own variety of coins sometime in 1909 - 1910 from machine-cut coin dies he had ordered with the Government of India Mint during his trip to Calcutta, in 1906 to meet the Prince of Wales.

The reason for my doubt is that there exists written proof that Trongsa Poenlop Jigme Namgyel DID NOT HAVE A MINT – even as late as 1863. He used to send copper to Jakar Poenlop Tsundru Gyaltshen – for hammering his coins for him.

For now, what I have been able to establish beyond doubt is that the coins Norzang Phoobchen were most definitely in existence during the reign of Trongsa Poenlop/Druk Desi Jigme Namgyel. This fact is validated by the mention of the coin by its name – in the soulful Lozey (ballad) immortalizing the tragic hero Pemi Tshewang Tashi in the employ of the then Wangzop Angdru Nyim. Other characters who find mention in the Lozey and the timeframe during which the event was supposed to have taken place – are spot on!

In the process of doing my research on the subject, I had to read, and attempt to translate, a small section of the Lozey …. which was an eye opener for me. Before I did so, I had never imagined that our vernacular Dzongkha was/is so rich, highly communicative and incredibly expressive! For proof, read the following:

The above is a verbatim reproduction of the section of Lozey from a book titled "Druk-Gi Pawi-Tamzoed" published in 1983, by the Department of Education, Royal Government of Bhutan.

Of Star-spangled Night Skies and Cute Little Mushrooms

In June of 2008 I embarked on a marathon 48 days trek – the trek would been even longer, had it not been for the sudden demise of my 103 years old granny who decided to pass away when I was in Merak, trudging up the mist-shrouded Jomo Kuengkhar peak – supposedly the abode of the local deity – Aum Jomo who, I was told, took on a human lover. The locals are full of raunchy tales of the most unlikely liaison between a Goddess and a human.

I had to break my trek to attend my granny’s funeral which took place at Tamzhing Lhakhang in Bumthang. Immediately after the funeral, I resumed my trek – starting with Dhur Tsachu Trek. Thereafter, I veered off to do the beautiful Gungkhar Puensoom Trek. At 7,570 Mtrs., Gungkhar Puensoom is Bhutan’s tallest peak and the world’s highest unclimbed mountain. Located to the north of Bumthang bordering China, the trek is beautiful but can get rather sloshy during the month of June when I did the trek. The mighty Chamkhar Chu begins its journey at the base of this peak.

While the night skies were breathtaking – ablaze with a few trillion stars jostling for space - days were rather uneventful. But there was something that kept me busy – some pretty mushrooms with unusual colors and shapes could be found all along the trek route. The following are some that I photographed - I wish I had carried along my ball-head tripod head – for sure the images could have been captured with better sharpness!

ENJOY!

March of History: Flight Information Display System (FIDS) at Paro International Airport

History records that construction of Paro International Airport was completed and inaugurated in the year 1968.

Bhutan’s National Flag Carrier - Druk Air - was created in 1981 - primarily as a bold statement of nationhood - but with commercial functions.

Exactly 15 years later, Paro International Airport began to function as the country’s one and only international airport - upon Druk Air starting to operate its commercial flights beginning February of 1983 - between Paro and Calcutta, India.

Sadly, even after 56 years of its establishment, Paro International Airport remained without a Flight Information Display System (FIDS) - thus forcing me to blog about the shameful state of affairs on Sunday, June 9, 2024 under the title “The World’s Most Inhospitable International Airport”. The blog can be read at:

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2024/06/the-worlds-most-inhospitable.html

Subsequently, sometime in August of 2024, the Department of Air Transport announced the installation of the much-needed Flight Information Display System (FIDS) with the following notification:

The announcement of the epochal event of the birth of FIDS at Paro International Airport during August, 2024

My sense of relief that a useful service has finally been put in place after over half a century, was short-lived. On 1st March, 2025, the display of information on the Paro International Airport’s FIDS read as follows:

The information displayed on the top right hand of the FIDS shows that the system has not been updated since 19th February, 2025.

Instead of serving a useful purpose, this FIDS has the potential to misinform and mislead. So, perhaps we are better off without it!

Few of Bhutan's Cute Little Birds

Bhutan has close to 800 bird species. My favourite are the little fellows - they are cute and flighty and tough as hell to photograph. The following are 10 of the cuties that I have photographed over the years:

Fire-tailed Myzornis

Plumbeous Water Redstart (Juvenile)

Plumbeous Water Redstart - Oldman Dad feeding the chics

Rufous-bellied Niltava

Rufous-fronted Tit

Rufous-vented Tit

Rufous-winged Fulvetta

Ultramarine Flycatcher

Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker

Yellow-browed Tit

Little Forktail

Some of these birds are indicator birds - their existence is proof that our environment is 👍