The first time I heard of Tergo-La was in early 2013. I had to go to Ugyen Pelri Palace in Paro - to photograph Her Majesty Queen Azhi Sangey Choden Wangchuck for the Royal Textile Academy’s coffee table book titled “Thagzo: The Textile Weaves of Bhutan”. I needed Her Majesty’s portrait to be featured in the book which I was doing for the RTA.
Once I was done with the shoot which took no more than 2-3 minutes, Her Majesty enquired:
“Yeshey, have you been to Tergo-La?”
“No Your Majesty, I don’t even know where it is la”
“It is in Haa … you should go there … the place has got to be one of the most beautiful places in Bhutan …. During the season, the whole mountain is resplendent with Rhododendron flowers …. I have never seen so much of them anywhere else in the country, or elsewhere outside the country. You should go and photograph them.”
“Las la … Come next season I will make a trip to Tergo-La la”.
Haa Wangchu Lo Dzong
Sadly, to this day, I could never make it to Tergo-La.
And yet, it would appear that I have some kind of karmic connection with the place - because the name "Tergo-La" came up, yet again - few days back. This time it was brought up by an environmentalist from abroad – someone who has contributed immensely towards our endeavors at protecting our natural habitat and the environment.
The person wondered if I had heard of the provability of some mining activity that is rumored to be coming up around Tergo-La area. I said that I did not hear of it, but assured the person that the rumor is unlikely to be true - particularly given the pristine setting of the environs around Tergo-La.
By way of assurance, I offered the following reasons:
Environmental Clearance from NEC/DoF
My protracted battle with the powers that be on the matter concerning the government's attempt to construct the Shingkhar-Gorgan road has shown that our environmental watchdogs – the NEC and the DoF – are no pushovers. They are forces to be reckoned with - they take their jobs dead seriously. Even if a project is touted as something beneficial to a community, Environmental Clearance from NEC/DoF is a must. It took a while but eventually the Department of Roads had to halt work on the Shingkhar-Gorgan road construction because the NEC/DoF determined that the road construction would cause too great an environmental destruction to the areas through which the road would pass. The NEC/DoF adamantly refused the environmental clearance – even when powerful influences were brought to bear on them, on the excuse that the road would bring great benefit to the people of Lhuentse. I am encouraged to believe that even in this mining case, the NEC/DoF are bound to take a firm stand – in particular if the mining project happens to be something that would impact some section of Haa community in a negative way. Perhaps the way forward is to conduct a Habitat Impact Assessment (HIA) so that all concerned are indemnified of accusations of false or rash or uneducated decisions.
Community Clearance from the people of Haa
In a BBS Report dated 27th April, 2013, it is stated that people of Haa had been vehement in their opposition to a similar proposal in the past. I vaguely recall that there exists a legal provision which provides that community clearance is mandated – if it is likely that the local community would stand to suffer as a consequence of implementing a planned project. It is my understanding that the government is mindful that they do not forsake or jeopardize local interests – unless the issue concerns national security.
Finally, the Head of the ruling Government is a Haap. Thus, I would think that, at the least, he would ensure that no harmful enterprises are authorized in his Dzongkhag – not during his tenure. His Excellency is a smart person – he would understand the implications of allowing a destructive project to happen in his own backyard – even while he is aware that his own supporters are vehemently opposed to it.
That said, I am old enough to know that nothing is an impossibility. This means I better get my butt to Tergo-La and shoot the stunning natural phenomenon that is said to be unmatched anywhere else!
It is profoundly sad … people don’t seem to understand that when the environment is desecrated - all that they will be left clutching will be their bundles upon bundles of cash .... They ought to know that they cannot eat their money. Humanity is already paying a heavy price for our irresponsibility in our behavior – it would be wise to take lessons from what is already happening around us.
I have said this before through this blog: When you arrive at a point when you have to say you are sorry ….. it will be already too late!
NOTE:
Ecologists believe that the presence of some species of Rhododendrons in their native habitat is a primary bioindicator of ecosystem health, climate stability, and habitat integrity.
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