Three Down, One To Go

One of the darkest periods in the history of the US is what was called the “Prohibition Era”. The Twenty-first Amendment of the US has the distinction of being the only constitutional amendment in American history that was passed to repeal another. The US prohibition era of the 1920s and 1930s encouraged the proliferation of deadly gangsters such as Al Capone, John Dillinger, Bonnie and Clyde, “Babyface” Nelson, “Pretty Boy” Floyd, Machine Gun Kelly, Ma Barker and the like. They stepped in to control and direct the business of prohibited alcohol in all the major cities of the US – even after the prohibition was repealed.

Bans, prohibitions and monopolies never work – infact they introduce crime and corruption and immorality into the society. In recent memory, we have/had four government sponsored prohibitions/bans/monopolies that have been responsible for the fall in morality of the Bhutanese people.

March of Bans & Prohibitions

1.  FIRST: Tourism business

Tourism was introduced on 1st December, 1971 but the business actually started only in 1974. It was a government monopoly until 1991. Beginning 1991, the monopoly was transferred to a private operator – the BTCL. The tourism business was de-monopolized when additional 33 licenses were issued by 1993. But the cap at 33 did not help.

Tour operation licenses were sold at premiums running into over 2 million a piece. Finally the cap was lifted, and thus, by 2001 tour operation licenses grew to 116. These licenses are now freely available, without restriction and special requirements.

One down – three to go.

2.  ALCOHOL: Bar License

The government segregated the alcohol trade as a separate and distinct business requiring a special license. Over time, issue of new bar licenses were suspended, creating a situation where bar licenses came to be sold for millions.

Beginning this month – kudos to the DNT government!! – the requirement of special bar licenses has been done away with. As of this month, all restaurants can sell alcohol.

Two down – two more to go.

3.  TOBACCO: Smoking and chewing of tobacco

The DPT government introduced Tobacco Control Act of Bhutan in 2010, effectively banning the cultivation, harvesting, production and sale of tobacco. This did not result in control or use or consumption of tobacco. On the contrary, it created black markets and illegal trade and caused people to be jailed and ostracized. Prices of cigarettes skyrocketed – selling at prices as high as Nu.1,000.00 per packet of 20 sticks.

Once again - kudos to the DNT government - the ban on tobacco was lifted last year – effectively eliminating illegal trade and lightening the burden on people’s purses.

Three down – one to go.

4.  DUTY FREE QUOTA: Duty free import for special class of people

One of the most immoral “entitlements” - the Vehicle Quota - was introduced sometime in the early 1970s - I am not very sure when exactly it was introduced - but it has to be early 1970s or even earlier, since I became entitled to it in 1979. Ofcourse I could not afford to buy a car then.

The award of this “entitlement” turns public servants into state-sponsored black-marketers, and it costs the country huge. The reasons offered for this automatic award is totally flawed. The award is not merit-based - even a lifelong shammer is awarded it when he/she attains a certain grade. It is not an award that is extended to the poor and the financially incapable - it is awarded to the high salaried officials. It is not a reward for service to the nation - if it were, the top industrialists of the country who contribute millions by way of taxes should be rewarded - as a mark of gratitude for their contribution to nation building.

The quota beneficiaries sell the quota in the black market at premiums as high as Nu.2.50 million. The illegally generated fund goes on to finance the purchase of another car for the quota holders, thus while only one vehicle was expected to be imported - two get imported.

This quota system still stands  - so far no single person or government has exhibited the moral probity to attempt to dismantle this evil, thus exposing the true nature of the Bhutanese.

Be a champion - kill this evil!

Tourism Should Matter to Every Bhutanese

Bhutan’s tourism – and anything related to it is, to me, as it should be to all Bhutanese, a matter of great concern. Tourism provides the largest number of employment – its benefit is accrued to every segment of Bhutanese society – and every age group. It is a net gain industry where the remuneration flows in months and even years before service delivery - all interest free. It is a top grosser in terms of foreign exchange generation.

It is therefore reasonable that all of us worry when there are signs of decline and rot that is seeping in into the industry; in the manner how it is misguided and mismanaged.

I worry because the government has no record of doing the right thing.

Consider, for instance, the case of the wreckage of one of the “World’s Best Trekking Destinations”, and the ongoing destruction being caused to a birding destination famously known as the “Birding Capital of the World”.

Jumolhari Base Camp Trek is considered to be among the very best treks in the world. It is so beautifully stunning that in 2015 I hosted a group of high-end professional photographers from the USA. They were supposed to do the Lingzhi trek and exit through Dodena in Thimphu. But upon reaching Jumolhari Base camp – they refused to move any further. They said that they do not believe that there can be another place more beautiful than the Base Camp. They spent six nights at Jangothang and returned without doing the rest of the planned trek. And look at what the government did to the trail:

The famous Jumolhari Base Camp Trek trail completely buried under felled trees and branches. Austrian government's aid money was used to destroy the environment although it was provided precisely to save it.

Trekkers should not be made to pay thousands of dollars to trek under such dangerously unsafe surroundings.

The RGoB used Austrian government aid money to destroy the trail and cause irreparable damage to the environment. A reader of my blog - Michal Thoma - sent me a link to the Austrian Development Agency (ADA) website where it is clearly stated that the RGoB would use the aid money for:

“……. construction of two mini hydropower plants, one in Soe (50KW) and one in Lingzhi (100KW) .…."

The Austrian government gave the money for the express purpose of building two mini hydropower plants – one each in Soe and Lingzhi villages, so that we can avoid stringing of ugly power lines and destroying the already scanty forest in the area. We did exactly what we were expected to avoid - people around the world were heart broken by the mindless act – so much so that some one from Australia even volunteered to do fund raising to relocate the power lines.

The bird-rich areas of Sengore, Yongkala and Lemithang in Mongar in the East of the country are known among the global birding community as the “Birding Capital of the World”. Some visiting birders have recorded close to two hundred bird specie sightings in a single day – a stunning record by any standard.

Sadly, yet again, on the pretext of widening the road, the continuous stretch of bird habitat in these areas are being vandalized mindlessly. We have already written three times to the government to be mindful of the destruction being caused to the bird habitat. But the government remains inattentive to the industry’s request. Clearly this birding destination will, over time, cease to exist.

There is talk that the government is going to electrify some villages in the Sombekha areas of Haa. Once again we fear that the government will mindlessly destroy the beautiful Tego-La areas that is gaining popularity among the tourists - as a spot for nature tourism. Is it likely that yet again the Jumolhari trail disaster will be repeated in Tego-La areas?

Giving Environment a Helping Hand

Environment - and its protection - is the one and only area in which Bhutan’s Supreme Court will allow Public Interest Litigation (PIL) – leaving us in no doubt as to how dead serious we are about our commitment towards the stewardship of our natural environment.

A discourse on the merits of a pristine environment is unnecessary – because most Bhutanese already understand the impacts of a degraded environment. It is for this reason that yesterday (04.06.2022) – on the Birth Anniversary of Her Majesty the Gyaltsuen (Her Majesty the Queen of Bhutan), a select group of Members of the Bhutan Birdlife Society – (of which I am one) undertook a tree plantation initiative at the Animoi Dratsang (nunnery) above Tsalumaphey in Thimphu. Some three hundred trees – mostly flowering and fruiting ones - have been planted. I choose to plant a Dogwood sapling.

Members of the Bhutan Birdlife Society readying for the initiative

Teach them young - a small girl plants a Maple sapling

Bhutan Birdlife Society’s initiative hopes to address two emerging environmental issues in the area – that of dwindling wild bird population, and near total loss of tree life that has rendered the area barren and unattractive. It is hoped that in the coming years, the area will be restocked with flowering and fruiting trees that will re-attract birds that have abandoned the area, while at the same time greening a historical place that is Tsalumaphey.

Trees and birds are intrinsically inter-connected – trees support the proliferation of birdlife while birds help multiply and reproduce trees. In the cycle of life, they handhold each other.

The Ebb and Flow of Life

Humans have theorized the procreation process of the birds, and everything else. And most often we had to rewrite our theories. But unhindered by our many misconceptions, life goes on ceaselessly – neither the lawlessness in Lunana, nor the perplexity of Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji’s case will hinder the march of life - it begins and ends as pre-destined.

For the past over two months, I have been keeping track of a bird couple resident at a small stretch of a stream that dissects Dechenchholing Dangrena – my locality. My attention was drawn to the Plumbeous Water Redstart (Rhyacornis fuliginoa) couple – the day I observed that they were on to their mating ritual. Unusually, the game began rather early – early March. My experience is that usually the birds in Bhutan begin their play sometime in early April - but it really depends on species - different species nest and breed at different times. Blame it on global warming – if the Black-necked Cranes can be seen in Gelephu, why can’t the amorous couple begin their game earlier than usual?

By mid April, I realized that the couple had mated, built their home and laid the eggs and even hatched them. I knew exactly where the nest was located – but kept it a secret lest someone go and disturb it. I became aware of the existence of the nest when I noticed that the birds were making repeated trips to a particular location – meaning the chicks have been hatched and they were being nurtured by the parents.

Yesterday I noticed that the chicks – all three of them - were out of the nest and they were put on the path of life – their parents were now teaching them the most important lesson of their lives – the art of gathering food – to survive and to start a new generation of birds – the process of perpetuating life on this planet.

Dad

Mom

One of the three new born chicks

The hard working mom feeding her three chicks

Dad too must contribute to the upbringing of the chicks

Most animals breed during the spring months. The reason is that during this season food is plentiful. Thus bringing up the young is simpler.

Looks Like The World Will Wait For Bhutan

“……….. Our latest series I am contacting you about, is a brand-new, presenter-led, eight-part documentary series for National Geographic, premiering on Disney +. 

  

……….. To that end, we are currently researching Bhutan as a country to visit during our series and we are looking for potential expert communicators who can broadly connect dots in the Bhutanese episode.

 

I was really keen to talk with you to ask some questions in regards to your beautiful country, that you have taken so many wonderful photographs of - and also we will take the opportunity to find out more about you……..”

Obviously the mystique endures and the allure is still potent. Can we fail ourselves?

CARPE DIEM!

IVth Je Damcho Pekar Did Not Do It

Ancient Bhutan was flush with coins of some 10 countries – including our own. The earliest silver coins called Narayanis that entered Bhutan were those of the Koch Kingdom - as gift to Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel during his visit to Chapcha – sometime in 1619 from the Maharaja of Koch Bihar. In addition to the silver Narayanis, we had coins from Assam, Bengal Presidency of British East India Company, British East India Company, British Raj, China, French East India Company, Nepal and Tibet.

In my collection: 1 Mohar silver coin of King Yoga Narendra Malla of Patan Kingdom of present day Nepal, hammered during his rule between 1685 to 1705 - around the time when Je Damcho Pekar ruled.

My coin book will carry few images of coins from these countries and a short background on the development of our relations with these countries. Other than the accounts of our relation with Nepal, rest are straight forward and without confusion.

Accounts by writers and historians with respect to our relations with neighbor Nepal is fraught with improbabilities and fallacies. But straightening out the inaccuracies is not a difficult task – because the history of our relation with that country revolves around the supposed, and grossly untrue, role of 4th Je Damcho Pekar and birth of Prithvi Narayan Shah, founder of the nation state of Nepal.

According to one account, 3rd Druk Desi Chhogyel Mingyur Tenpa is supposed to have sent Damcho Pekar to Gorkha land at the invitation of Gorkha king Nara Bhupal Shah. Consequent upon the Tantric rituals performed by Damcho Pekar, the childless Nara Bhupal Shah was blessed with a son - Prithvi Narayan Shah – the unifier of the Kingdom of Nepal.

This account cannot be true since Chhogyel Mingyur Tenpa ruled from 1668 – 1680 as the 3rd Druk Desi. Before that he was the Choetse Chila from 1646 – 1668.

Prithvi Narayan Shah was born only on 11th January, 1723.

According to another account, Damcho Pekar is said to have sent several monks to the land of the Gorkhas, at the request of Gorkha king – to help him beget a son. If this is true, the king would have to be the father of Prithvi Narayan Shah – Nara Bhupal Shah who was born in 1697 and died in 1743.

As per Bhutanese records, Damcho Pekar was the 4th Je Khenpo who ruled between 1697 and 1707.

Thus, this record too is flawed – because the reign of Je Damcho Pekar was already over by 1707 and thus could not have sent any monks to the Gorkha land at the behest of Gorkha King Nara Bhupal Shah. In fact in all provability Je Damcho Pekar would have been long dead and cremated, by the time Prithvi Narayan Shah was born on 11th January, 1723.

Regardless of the confusion in dates and personalities, there is no doubt that a Lama from Bhutan did go to Nepal. According to another account chronicled in Nepali literature, it is written that:

“……… according to the Bhasa Vamsavali (Chronicles of Nepal), Nara Bhupal Shah, being childless, invited Dharmaraja to Nepal and with the blessings and ritual and Tantrik commencement performed by him, he became the father of a child, Prithvi Narayan Shah - the founder of modern Nepal.”

In yet another record, portions of an article appearing in the “The Treasury of Lives” authored by Karma Rigzin, a researcher at the Institute of Language and Culture Studies, reads as follows:

“Migyur Tenpa, the Third Druk Desi is said to have sent him (Damcho Pekar) to build political relations in Kathmandu valley and he may have already been in Yambu (Kathmandu), possibly on pilgrimage, when he was invited to the court of the Gorkha king Ram Shah (r. 1609-1633, d. 1636).  According to legend, the king was desperate for a son, and following a prophetic dream by one of the queens, invited Damcho Pekar to conduct pujas and blessings. The queen subsequently gave birth to a son, and, crediting him with saving the dynasty, the king granted Damcho Pekar lands and villages in the Nepal Himalaya.”

There is problem with this account as well. When King Ram Shah ruled Damcho Pekar was not even born. King Ram Shah ruled from 1606 to 1636. He was born in 1550 and died in 1636.

From all the above, it can be concluded conclusively that it was not Je Damcho Pekar who went to Nepal to perform the Tantric rituals and to bless the royal couple that resulted in the birth of Prithvi Narayan Shah. It was most likely 5th Je Zodpa Thinley (r. 1707 – 1724) who performed the rituals. Or, it may have been 9th Druk Desi Ngawang Gyamtsho (r. 1720 – 1729) who may have sent a learned Lama to perform the rituals desired by Gorkha king Nara Bhupal Shah.

Regardless of what is true – relations between Bhutan and Nepal was at its zenith during the reign of Maharaja Prithvi Narayan Shah.  During the rule of Nepal's Mukhtiyar Bhimsen Thapa (r. 1806 - 1837) – we even had a postal service running between Punakha and Kathmandu.

Bhutan’s Earliest Coins: Determining the Place & Year of Coinage

With awful lot of confusing information put out by various writers and historians on Bhutan’s coinage, it has been a most arduous job in trying to determine exactly when and where Bhutan first hammered our coins. The deep delve has been long, laborious and vexing – the delight of a discovery of new and exciting information has most often ended up being just that – excitingly false and inaccurate. But the start of every journey must see an end and I believe that I have reached my journey’s end on this particular subject of when and where.

Contrary to many historical accounts that claim that Bhutan began hammering our coins within the country sometime towards the end of 1700, I discover that it is not quite true. What transpires to be true is that Bhutan is among the most rare countries whose coining journey began in a foreign land – in exercise of the powers and authority of overlordship over a fallen victim – in the conquered Kingdom of Koch Bihar.

Supposedly Bhutan's earliest hammered coin - the silver Ma-tang. If it is true that this is our earliest coin, then it would have to have been hammered at a place called Ghatika in Koch Bihar because in later years this coin came to be called the "Nyingtang Ghatikap" - old coin from Ghatika.

Sonam Wangdi of Koortoe Jarey was a member of the retinue of over 300 who accompanied Trongsa Poenlop Ugyen Wangchuck during his visit to India in 1906. On their return journey he remembers visiting the Ghatika Mint that was still operational. Sonam Wangdi described the sound of minting thus:  Graab Tsring ..... Graab Tsring ..... Graab Tsring.

At the end of hundreds of hours of boring through numerous literatures on the subject – gleaned from accounts authored by writers and historians from US, UK, Belgium, Germany, Nepal, Tibet, India and Bhutan, I narrowed down to two accounts that I find are the most credible – one by the Bhutanese author Dorji Penjore of CBS and another one by a Bengali writer named Nagendra Singh.

These two authors speak of the exact same events that occasioned the start of the journey of Bhutan’s coining in the erstwhile Kingdom of Koch Bihar. Unfortunately while most of the facts tally, these two accounts give the year of coinage that is many decades apart. However, it was not difficult for me to determine which of the two is the more accurate account.

When I examined the two records more closely to determine which of the two accounts is likely to be the more accurate one – I noticed one common factor in the two accounts – the mention of the name - Raikat Darpa Dev. This name appears in both the accounts.

Written historical records I consulted confirm that in 1773, Raikat Darpa Dev was the reigning Raja of the State of Baikunthopur in the present day Jalpaiguri of West Bengal. He is recorded as a staunch ally of Bhutan's Ja Chila (Jagar Poenlop) Punsutama, seated at the capital of the Koch Kingdom at that time.

Now I am clear as to which of the two accounts is the factual one.

We Should All Hang Our Heads In SHAME

“……….. Then there were all those dogs running around, and very often there was a big dogfight.  All the people bring their food with them and since there is never any sort of an intermission during the day they just eat when they want to. Now, when there are a lot of loose dogs running around, some funny things happen at times. A dog will run up to some one’s dinner and grab a mouthful of food and away the dog scrams with some rocks being thrown at him, and a lot of yelling, etc., etc.”

The lone chillip during the Paro Tsechu on 13th April, 1965 who submitted the above report to “The D’Xer Magazine” published in Cordova, South Carolina, USA was the legendary Mr. Gus Browning, a celebrated ham radio luminary from USA. He was in Bhutan in April of 1965, accompanied by his wife Peggy.

More than half a century since the report, our stray dogs problem has not improved – infact it has deteriorated even further. All because of the misguided and hypocritical religious zealots who stand up for the dogs but stand down in their responsibilities in providing care and shelter for the dogs. Wagging glib tongues in compassion and allowing the problem to fester and become a problem for the society is not an achievement.

One girl child has been mauled to death – I ask you – how many will it take before the government will look at the problem with an objective mind – and do something different than that which has failed to solve the problem for the past more than half a century.

Please move off the pulpit of hypocrisy and hang your heads in shame because you have collectively helped snuff off a life even before it began.

Who will dare go and console the distraught mother? How will the society compensate her for our failure due to which her little girl has been eaten alive by the dogs that we failed to control and contain? For her – it is too late. For us too it is too late – to say that we are sorry.

I keep reminding people again and again that we should never allow ourselves to arrive at a point when we have to say sorry because by then, it will be too late.

The Ongoing Resistance To The MDPR Dismantling Brigade

Stealthy, secretive, elusive and something of a mirage called the “Committee on Tourism Reform” is supposedly working on reforming the tourist industry in Bhutan. The tourism stakeholders are clueless about who or where they are and what they are working on. But no matter - eventfully they will have to put the pudding on the table for all to taste.

The whole human civilization is founded on hope – and our hope is that this Committee will come up with something even better than what we already have – I mean that is the whole idea, isn’t it?

There is no confusion which path we must tread - more capable people before us have shown us the way

My continuing worry is the attempt by some interest groups to dismantle the MDPR (Minimum Daily Package Rate) policy that has been in place and working fabulously, for the last close to half a century, since 1974. The MDPR policy, if done away with, will have over two dozen impacts on the government and the people of Bhutan. But today I want to touch only on the following two issues – there are other issues that are even more damaging – but these two impact the government directly:

1.  A drastic drop in the inflow of foreign exchange; and
2.  A dramatic drop in tax collection from the tourism sector.

DROP IN INFLOW OF FOREIGN EXCHANGE

Under a SDF (Sustainable Development Fund) only regime, the tour operators will be required to deposit only the SDF portion of the tour cost – resulting in a very huge reduction in the inflow of foreign exchange. Instead of US$250.00 per person per night halt, the tour operators will get away by bringing in only US$65.00 per person per night halt. Do your mathematics and see what is the percentage of drop in foreign exchange earnings.

Please read the following Constitutional provision. Will the government be able to fulfill this Constitutional requirement – under the SDF only regime?

          Article 14
          Finance, Trade and Commerce ?
          7.  A minimum foreign currency reserve that is adequate to meet the cost of not
               less than one year’s essential import must be maintained.

In addition to the need to fulfill the Constitutional requirement of holding foreign exchange reserve to meet atleast a year’s essential imports, there is the other issue we must not overlook - our need to buy Indian Rupee from time to time - to pay for our imports. So far, we have been using our foreign exchange reserve to buy the Indian Rupees, whenever needed. With such a huge drop in the inflow of $$, will we have enough to fund the purchase of the Indian Rupees? Ofcourse the inward remittance by none-resident Bhutanese is a welcome development.

The MDPR Dismantling Brigade does not present a true and accurate picture to the government – they are simply enticing the government with the carrot that the government will not lose, in fact they offer to enhance the SDF in the hope that the government will be tempted and take a bite. That is a lousy game to play – unworthy of a true Bhutanese with Bhutanese interest at heart.

DRASTIC DROP IN TAX COLLECTION
Under a SDF only regime, the Tour Operators are open to tax evasion. Because they are required to deposit only the SDF portion of the tour cost, the true size of their business will not be known or recorded. Thus there will be rampant under-declaration of turnover. This means there will be huge drop in tax collection by the government.

Under the current MDPR regime – tax evasion is impossible – every turnover of the tour operator is recorded with the TCB thus, under-declaration is not possible.

Tax collection is important and essential – because it is a mechanism to redistribute the country’s wealth. The tour operators make money through the opportunities provided to them by the country’s natural wealth. Through the collection of tax from the tour operators’ earnings, the tax money can be ploughed back to fund essential projects that will benefit other segments of the society. This way we achieve some level of equitable distribution of the country’s pool of wealth.

In my view, no single person or institution or government can dare touch the MDPR in its present form – because if they do, what will follow will be devastating and irretrievable.

The DNT government has been in an unfortunate position to be caught in the middle of the pandemic and they did not really have the opportunity to demonstrate their acumen. I feel sorry for them and hope that they get a second chance to prove themselves. But I urge them to leave alone a matter that successive governments for the past forty-five years that have preceded them, have seen wisdom in leaving it well alone - and untouched.

I accept that change has to come – but change must come at the right time. And the Bhutanese people – not the carpetbaggers from outside who are starting to muddy the pool in the country - must direct that change.

The Bizarre Case of Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji

The news that Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji had attacked an ACC (Anti Corruption Commission) official with a knife was so incredulous that I was stunned into numbness that whole evening. How is it possible that such a thing can happen – that such an act can take place within the sanctum sanctorum of the land’s highest justice system?

It is not upto commoners like us to question the validity of the proceedings of the three tiers of Bhutan’s judicial system, which culminated in the pronounced verdict in the Trongsa land case against Karma Tshetim Dolma, Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji’s wife. To question the wisdom behind the verdict is to lose faith in the institution of Bhutan’s judicial system. It is a dangerous thing to happen. It is not about that at all. I am not questioning the verdict – I am appalled by the act of Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji.

Ex-President of JDWNRH Lhab Dorji receiving one of the many donations of medical equipment made by the Rotary Club of Thimphu

What drove Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji to commit such an act that is self-destructive?

The Supreme Court upheld the lower Courts’ verdict and ruled that Lhab Dorji would get five years of prison for his involvement in the Trongsa land case. Without doubt Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji would know that an attempt to murder would get him lifetime imprisonment. He knew that 5 years was better than a lifetime in prison. And yet, he went ahead and carried through the premeditated act of murder.

Why?

Is it an act of a prey whose back has been pushed to the wall and he finds that he has nowhere else to go but forward – a final act in desperate retaliation – the outpouring of frustrations that remained pent up throughout the long drawn legal process?

I met Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji many times – first time in his capacity as the Thimphu Dzongda. Then few times when he was the President of JDWNRH, when I had to meet him in my capacity as the Secretary of the Rotary Club of Thimphu – to implement health related projects involving delivery and installation of medical equipment in JDWNRH. I always found him to be a balanced and levelheaded person. Then what caused him to take law into his own hands? Does he believe that the law has failed him?

My heart goes out to Ex-Dzongda Lhab Dorji – not because I believe that he is innocent of the charges leveled at him – but because it is obvious that there are issues that we are clueless about.

Lhab Dorji made a mistake – he got caught in an act of crime.

The thing about crime is that it is a crime only when you are caught in it – otherwise it is not a crime. There are hundred times bigger criminals than Lhab Dorji who are walking free and dispensing morality to people. They are the epitome of human morality.

That is the tragedy of life!

There Never Was A Ban On Tourism

Hi Kris,

Nice to hear back from you. Good to know that you are all well and safe.

Yes indeed the mad man Putin has lost his marbles and is causing misery to millions across the glob. Obviously, as a member of the inter-connected global community, we in Bhutan too are impacted due to rising costs and shortage of supplies – in addition to the difficulties caused by the pandemic. But we are surviving.

You are right – tourism is our most vital industry and it is at a standstill – we are pushing hard for the reopening of the tourism – but there is this five days quarantine requirement for international travelers that is a huge deterrent. It is our hope that the government would lift that soon. Actually it is not that there is a ban on tourists entering Bhutan – there never was one - tourists were always welcome to come any time but the requirements for their eligibility to enter Bhutan during the pandemic were extremely discouraging - not suited to the majority of our class of visitors.

The industry players were in a state of utter confusion - caused by incoherence in the pronouncement of policies related to tourism in the country.

As you know, cost is not the only determining factor – time is even more important to the class of people to whom Bhutan appeals.

The Tourism Council of Bhutan’s "BHUTAN TOURISM MONITOR 2020" records that the average length of stay by tourists in Bhutan is six nights. This clearly means that our tourists will not want to languish in a quarantine facility - five nights of the six nights they want to spend here.

I get the sense that as long as we are fully vaccinated, the present Omicron variant of COVID-19 should not be any cause for serious worry – unless a more lethal variant emerges. So I do not believe that the cause for our government’s dithering is the fear of the virus. Bhutan is said to have achieved “herd immunity”.

So, if you are planning to come to Bhutan – now is the time to start planning your travel itinerary.

Wolfgang wrote back too – saying that he is fine and safe. By the way could you please send me a digital copy of my article in the Festschrift publication? Thanks.

Bye and take care …. and please keep safe.

Know Your Bja Throong Throong Karm

I have been photographing birds for close to two decades. I had never intended to be a bird photographer - but we have seen that our life’s pattern is not woven in the way we will it, nor do we always arrive where we intended to. Life seems to have a life of its own – distinct from how we desire it. So it has been with my journey of bird photography – of all things, it was set into motion by the accidental capture of an image of a very scrawny, heart-wrenching female bird called Plumbeous Water Redstart (Rhyacornis fuliginosa). That puny little bird triggered my lifelong passion for bird photography – I never looked back since. My bird images have been featured in publications spanning the glob. One of them have even featured in the “Guinness Book of World Records 2012” – another one is included in a book titled “100 Birds To See Before You Die”.

My image of the White-bellied Heron featured in this book as the world's rarest heron

My image of the Little Forktail featured in this book titled "100 Birds To See Before You Die"

Number of birds found in Bhutan is approaching a whopping 800 species, which is more than most bigger countries. Of this number, I believe that a large number of Bhutanese would have heard of, or know of, the migratory bird called the Black-necked Cranes (Grus nigricollis). The bird is known by the local name of Bja Throong Throong Karm. These birds migrate to Bhutan during the winter months.

In an attempt to enhance the knowledge of the Bhutanese about the famous bird, I present the following images which I have captured over the years. But before the images, let me present some facts of the birds:

Bird Count

Current estimated global count of the birds: 8,000 – 11,000 individuals.

Life Expectancy

Between 20-30 years.

Habitat

Alpine meadows and wetlands

Countries Where They Are Found

Bhutan

India

Tibet China

Vietnam

Physical Attributes Of The Birds

Adults: Head, neck, wings and tail are black - with a red crown and a small light grey spot extending backward from yellow eyes. Body has ashy gray feathers, with tall legs.

Juveniles: black and gray body plumage, with cinnamon-brown head.

Identification Of The Sexes

Both male and female look the same thus rather difficult to make a distinction. However, the male is supposed to be marginally larger than the female.

Threat To The Birds

Loss of habitat due to human pressure on the wetlands and increased grazing on the limited pastures near the wetlands - leading to the degradation of the wetland habitat.

Honor

The Black-necked crane is the State Bird of the Union Territory of Ladakh, India.

Threesome: father, mother and offspring

Riding the thermals to arrive and depart Phobjikha valley, which they make their home during the winter months

Faithless - nevertheless they pass by a Buddhist stupa and white prayer flags fluttering in the winds

A dainty Black-necked Crane lass - welcoming and ready for any male with adequate levels of testosterone

The show-off - preening for attention

Executing the mating dance: a male with adequate levels of testosterone

The birds in front of a traditional Bhutanese house: testimony that these birds are indeed resident in Bhutan. Without the inclusion of the Bhutanese traditional house, the bird could have been photographed in any one of the other three countries where they are also found

On the runway: all set to ride the thermals - to depart for their summer homes

Bhutanese Myth Surrounding The Bird

The Bhutanese people believe – erroneously – that the birds circumambulate the Gangtey Goenpa (Gangtey monastery) in reverence, upon arrival in Phobjikha valley. They are said to do the same – when departing for their principal habitats in the North. That would not be true - the Black-necked Cranes are not Buddhists by religion – all birds are faithless creatures.

The reason why they run circles around the valley is to lose or gain height as they land or begin their long distance flight. In the process of circling the valley upon arrival, they are able to lose height gradually and steadily, so that they are able to land softly or gently – landing at once would kill them. The birds gain height by circling – to get lift and enter the zone of the thermals – which help reduce the amount of energy needed to stay afloat and remain in constant flight.

Fallen Labor Of My Love

The sight I beheld early morning yesterday during my birding trip to Dochu-La broke my heart. At a national level, the sight – ominous and foreboding - was a stark reminder of how deep the rot runs; how utterly futile it is to attempt to resuscitate the tourism industry that has seen steady decline over the last few years. 

At a personal level, it was a case of defilement and neglect of my labour of love and care - for an industry that I deeply care for and believe is the most vital for Bhutan and the Bhutanese people.

No other site in Bhutan attracts as many tourists as does Dochu-La. The site’s biggest draw is ofcourse the stunning view of the snowcapped Eastern Himalayan Mountain Range that extends ninety degrees across the northeastern end of the view, in addition to the very photogenic Druk Wangyel Chortens. More than ninety percent of the tourists who come to Bhutan make it to Dochu-La – the reason is that it can be accessed by all age groups of the visitors to the country - because they can drive to the site without the need for laborious uphill trek, like in the case of Taktsang.

Sadly, most often, the view of the mountain range is masked by thick clouds and rising mists, causing much disappointment to the visiting viewers. Most visitors to Dochu-La return without having seen the one sight they came to view – what a disappointment. 

I decided to launch a personal initiative - to try and improve the visitor’s experience at the famous site.

Towards the end of 2018, I approached the Tourism Council of Bhutan and proposed that we install a gigantic billboard showcasing the full mountain range that is visible on a clear day. I would provide the photographic images, oversee the printing of the final collaged image, and ensure that the construction and installation of the board is done properly – ALL ABSOLUTELY FREE OF COST. The idea is that the visitors, if unable to view the range due to foul weather, can come and view it on the billboard – so they know what they have missed.

The TCB management agreed to carry through the idea. With that firmly in the pocket, through appropriate channel I sought Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck’s permission to dismantle the hand-sketched board that was earlier installed at Dochu-La, to be replaced by a huge photographic billboard that would depict the full mountain range with their names and heights. Her Majesty was kind enough to give her consent.

Early January 2019, I began photographing the mountain range – in multiple sections. I had to buy a special rail device to shoot the frames. A single wide-angle frame would not work - the image captured would be too miniscule. I needed to use a telephoto lens - to draw in the peaks that I would later stitch together. To maintain perspective, it is important that the camera slide horizontally to capture each succeeding frames of the panorama. Turning the camera will not do. I used vertical format so that I get to cover as large an area as possible - so it can take a lot of cropping post shooting.

Over five different mornings, I captured the images – the series of images had to be captured fast because light changes every second. In time I handed over the images to a digital darkroom artist – to stich together the images – to produce a single image measuring close to 24 ft. long.

In the following months the construction and installation of the billboard began. I made many trips to Dochu-La to ensure that the work was being carried out correctly. I insisted that I want to take a look at a sample print (being printed in India) – before the final image was produced on special weather resistant photographic paper. The billboard took months to produce – but the project was successfully completed and installed during mid 2019.

The massive billboard installed at Dochu-La during mid 2019

A close-up of the billboard that depicts the full range of Bhutan's highest peaks spread across 90 degrees of the view

Sadly, unable to stand the weight of the heavy snow early this year, the massive billboard had collapsed and crumpled to the ground. And there it remains to this day – broken, uncared for and gathering dust and grime - a victim of apathy and mindlessness - an indicator of the state of affairs in the tourism industry!

Indicator of things to come - fallen, broken, untended and neglected!

The success story of Bhutan's tourism industry has been an inter-generational endeavor - each succeeding generations have added a verse, a line to the poetry that is Bhutan's tourism industry. But now indications are that it is headed for doom.

Will you choose to carry the burden of tourism's failure on your memory? Think carefully - like I said - by the time you arrive at a point when you have to say you are sorry - it will be too late.

Flippant Conversations

All signs are that the storm has now passed and the dusts are beginning to settle down, giving way to moments of nervous relaxation and flippant remarks that tell the inner angsts that have replaced the fear of death by COVID-19.

Lockdowns are lifted, kidu (relief) is now infra-dig, rents must be paid in full, interest meters at the financial institutions will start to jingle; monthly loan installments will be demanded to be paid regularly and in time.

All reliefs, concessions and waivers occasioned by the COVID-19 pandemic are now off the table.

Two evenings back, sitting in a restaurant sipping whiskey, I was party to a number of saucy conversations among friends.

FIRST SPEAKER

I am now convinced that no less than 80% of the Bhutanese have been infected by the virus. I believe that it is for that reason that the government has announced that no further lockdowns will be imposed. All COVID related restrictions have been lifted. Citizens are advised not to visit JDWNRH - because doing so is guaranteed to get the visitor infected with the Omicron virus. 

SECOND SPEAKER

This means that Bhutan has achieved “Herd Immunity” which is a good thing – this is an ideal condition that all nations aspire for.

THIRD SPEAKER

That means the tables have now turned – we now have to worry about Bhutanese people infecting the visitors to the country (tourists) – and not the other way round.

FOURTH SPEAKER

No wonder the government is laying an egg on the decision to reopen tourism – they are scared we might infect the visiting tourists.

Board Members of the apex tourism body: The Tourism Council of Bhutan

FIFTH SPEAKER – ONE CALLING IN FROM OUTSIDE OF THIMPHU

What is happening to the decision on reopening of tourism?

SIXTH SPEAKER

The donkeys in the government are sitting on the decision.

FIFTH SPEAKER – ONE CALLING IN FROM OUTSIDE OF THIMPHU

What donkeys – they are worst then donkeys. The donkeys will atleast snort and wiggle their tails or kick once in a while. Our bureaucrats are numbed into stillness and dormancy - they are motionless.

SEVENTH SPEAKER

Mashey marey – I have stopped caring about my tourism business. Early next month I am heading for Australia and will spend a month or two there, to spend time with my partner. I may decide to resume my tourism business or may be I will just forget the whole thing – it is no longer what it used to be. Trowa mep yasoi (no enthusiasm).