Saturday, July 23, 2016

A Most Environmentally Friendly Project Ends Up Being The Most Destructive!

It now turns out that there is another face - as yet unknown and even more sinister - to the deplorable act of the destruction of the Jumolhari Base Camp Trek trail. It appears that the Austrian Government’s aid money was never intended to be used for stringing ugly power lines across the pristine wilderness of the Jumolhari Base Camp Trek trail. In fact it was clearly stated how that money was to be used. How it came to be used to destroy the Jumolhari Base Camp Trek trail is any body’s guess.

A reader of my blog - Michal Thoma sent me a link to the Austrian Development Agency (ADA) website where it is clearly stated that the RGoB would use the aid money for:

“……. construction of two mini hydropower plants, one in Soe (50KW) and one in Lingzhi (100Kw) .…."

The following link gives the details of what the money was to be used for:

This means that we have not only destroyed one of the most beautiful treks in the world but we have gone and reneged on a solemn understanding reached with a development partner of long standing.

We can accept that there may have been justifiable reasons for the government to deviate from the original purpose for which the aid money was given. But what is most galling is that the government has gone and used the money to cause irrevocable destruction to the environment - even while being aware that the whole purpose of the ADA funding was to save the environment - by providing funding to do the less harmful method of delivering electricity to the pristine Soe and Lingzhi regions – by opting to construct mini hydro-power plants.

It can happen only in Bhutan: that a most environmentally friendly project ends up being the most destructive!

I wonder what the Government of Austria has to say to this Machiavellian act?

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

My Advise to a Tour Operator on the Destruction of the Jumolhari Base Camp Trek

A reader from Australia (a tour operator) left a note on my blog seeking my advise and additional information on the Jumolhari Trek trail. The following is how I replied:

Hi James,

Greetings from Bhutan and thank you for visiting my blog and leaving a comment on the destruction of Bhutan’s most famous trek route - the Jumolhari Base Camp Trek.

What happened is most shameful and highly irresponsible. We may never be able to undo the damage that has been caused but it is my hope that the government will do whatever is necessary to salvage some of the destruction. Hopefully the Austrian government will chip in too - supposedly it was their money that was used to cause the damage to the trail.

With respect to my views, I cannot say for certain - but it may be possible that the trail will be cleared of the trees and wreckage by the time your group arrives here in October. You will have to ask your local partners to monitor the situation closely. If it seems like the trail will remain as dangerously cluttered as it looks now, perhaps it may be a good idea to suggest an alternate trek to your clients who have booked already. Nothing ofcourse will substitute the beauty of the Jumolhari trek - but there are other treks that come pretty close. Your local partners should be able to suggest one.

Having said that, you will have to make a decision - in consultation with your Bhutanese partners - whether it will be prudent for you to get your clients to do the Jumolhari trek, even after you have become aware of the state it is now in. It is my belief that you sold the trek to your clients in good faith - based on the pristine condition it was in. But that situation has now changed. Therefore  - should you chose to withhold the information of the trail’s destruction from your clients, I see two issues: one, you are not being ethical, and two, you may stand to lose more than just 15 clients - you may be accused of putting your own interests above that of your clients. Therefore, if I were in your shoes, I would put the cards face up on the table and let the clients decide. You don't want your clients returning home from the trek and accuse you of misleading them.

But one thing you can assure them without hesitation - that if they can overlook the rough trail, the view at the end of the trek will be stunning and unmatched. I am also happy that you have chosen October month to do the trek. That is a great time to go to Jumolhari. The trillions of shimmering stars in the night sky of Jangothang will more than compensate your clients’ initial disappointment with the trail.

Finally, to answer your question:  The destruction starts at the start of the trail and goes all the way to the end of the trek - Jangothang.

Here is wishing you BEST OF LUCK with what you decide finally.

Bye and take care

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

State of Bhutan’s Most Famous Trek Trail

One reader forwarded me the following photos. He tells me that the photos were taken during April of this year.

The trail is completely buried in piles upon piles of trees and branches - so much so that it is no longer visible. Why is such a wide clearing of forests needed for the electric posts to run through?

One can see the utter mindlessness with which the BPC carried out the work. They should have had the common sense to consult the Tourism Council of Bhutan - before they planned the work because they would have been aware that they were going to operate within an area that is one of the country’s most important tourist destinations.

As can be seen from the photos, they felled the trees right onto the trail. They did not bother to fell the trees in such a way that they did not hinder traffic  - the trail is buried under piles and piles of trees and branches - so much so that the trial is practically invisible. As you can see the tourists are lost - because it is difficult to see the trail. Fortunately there are no reported accidents so far.

There is an urgent need to do something about this trail - before the trekking season starts. The devastation has been caused - but it may still be not too late to salvage the problem. BPC should be answerable for their mindless act.

The Austrian Government should be requested to undo what has been done with the aid of their money. This should also serve as a lesson to them - that the onus is on them to ensure that their future aid money is used responsibly and not for causing destruction.

Devastation of Bhutan's Most Famous Trek Route: Some Impressive Stats

My posts on the devastation of Bhutan’s most famous trek route drew some serious readership. It is encouraging that there are many out there who care for conservation and the environment. Look at the following statistics:

It terms of hits by country, the following are the numbers - Drups lead by miles - proof that we do care for the environment.

The stats are for July 18, 10 AM to July 19, 9:00 AM.

Bhutan                        1,969
India                              533
United States                 324
Australia                        149
Singapore                      126
Thailand                        114
United Arab Emirates     82
Germany                         76
Malaysia                         69
Nepal                              69

TOTAL                     3,511 visitors

For the same period, the most read blogs were on the following subjects:

3,485  Devastation of Bhutan’s Most Famous Trek Route 
   431  Devastation of Bhutan’s Most Famous Trek Route II
     56  Chasing the Mighty Golden Mahseer
    49  Educated are in rural Bhutan while literate ones live in the capital city 
     46  Devastation of Bhutan’s Most Famous Trek Route

A concerned reader sent me a mail that reads:

Dear Aue Yeshey,

The issue of devastation of the Jomolhari trail has been bothering us, for we value this as one of the most scenic treks in the world. It is truly sad that this wanton destruction happened under the very noses of authorities whose duty it is to uphold Bhutan’s strong conservation ethics.

What can we do now? Personally, it was very disturbing to see the ‘graveyard of trees’ on my recent trek in April. While much havoc has been wreaked, what can we do now? Waste management is a major issue along the trail, everywhere. Maybe we should look at this as an opportunity to make things right - even if it may be a little late.

Are the authorities listening?

Monday, July 18, 2016

Devastation of Bhutan’s Most Famous Trek Route: A View from Outside

Early this morning starting at 1:03 AM through 2.03 AM, a reader of my blog - Brent Olson - posted the following three comments on my blog, on the devastation of Bhutan’s most famous trek route.

1:03 AM: 
If the Australian Govt. paid for the rural electrification of this region, the cost of rerouting the lines to preserve one of Bhutan's key tourism destinations should have been included in the budget. Optionally, if tour operators around the world were told of this disastrous decision, they could have launched a campaign to raise funds to pay for the rerouting! Why weren't these options considered?

1:19 AM: 
Having been involved in promoting tourism to Bhutan for the past 30 years and having done this trek route several times myself, this is heartbreaking news. After my sadness passed, I became angry that such a disastrous decision was allowed to proceed! While rural electrification is a lofty and admirable goal, there has to be a cost and benefit analysis done. How many Bhutanese are going to benefit from these lines? What is the implication to the environment, to this popular trek route and to the tourism industry that employs so many Bhutanese? While it is true that only a small number of travelers (out of the thousands that visit Bhutan each year) actually do this trek, these types of actions damage the overall impression of travelers to the country. Bhutan is heavily promoted as an environmentally sensitive and extremely forward thinking country. Actions such as this make people wonder if those descriptions are actually true. Putting electric poles and lines along this pristine trek route would be the equivalent of putting a four lane freeway through Yosemite Valley and to what benefit, the electrification of a few households and villages? Wouldn't that money have been better spent developing solar, wind and mini hydro power for these regions, especially given their value to Bhutan and the world? Rather than just complain about this bad decision, I think it needs to be stopped and funds need to be raised to reroute or bury the lines. I would be happy to help instigate a fund raising campaign focused on that goal if it isn't already too late......

2:03 AM
Those responsible for these horrible decisions should be held accountable. Of course, it now sounds like it is too late to make any difference for the Jhomolhari area..... 

Mr. Brent Olson is obviously as pained as I am at the recklessness with which Bhutan’s most famous trek route has been destroyed. He goes so far as to commit to raise funds, to reroute the transmission lines - if the government will consider it.

Perhaps even the Government of Austria could help - after all it was their funding that caused the devastation. They ought to take ownership for not ensuring that their money is used for something that is useful and beneficial for Bhutan and its people. Their funding would certainly help a few dozen households in the Jumolhari area - but in the process the country has been deprived of hundreds of millions of dollars in tourism revenue, for decades to come.

Sunday, July 17, 2016

Chasing the Mighty Golden Mahseer

I just returned from a 4-days fishing trip to Tsirang. This time we were aiming for the mighty Golden Mahseer (Tor putitora). The Golden Mahseer is an endangered fish species found in Bhutan, India, Indonesia, Malaysia and Pakistan. Biggest and strongest among fresh water fish, the Golden Mahseer is perhaps the most sought after fresh water game fish. They can grow upto 9 ft. in length and over 54 Kgs. in weight. In Bhutan they can be found in Punatsangchhu in the West, Tingtingbi in the central, Dangmechhu and Kurichhu in the East and Kalikhola, Panbang, Manas and Yangbari in the south.

Hooking a Mahseer is tough - but landing it is even tougher. I know of a friend who struggled to land a Mahseer for over two hours - unsuccessfully. At the end, he had to cut the line in frustration since he had no more energy left to fight the fish.

The International Game Fish Association (IGFA) accepts Belgian angler Frank Van de Wyer as the world record holder for his catch of 19.96 Kgs. (44 lbs) Golden Mahseer, caught in the Sayru river in north-central India. This is minuscule compared to Bhutan’s record of 35 Kgs. – the Golden Mahseer was caught in Homa Khola, Kalikhola on 25th September, 1978.

Photographic evidence of Bhutan's record catch - note that the fish is taller than the pony to which it is strapped.

My own record catches are: 27 Kgs. in Sheyteykharey, Kalikhola, 23 Kgs. in Tingtingbi and 19 Kgs. in Harachhu in Wangdue. The fish below was caught by me on July 14, 2016 at Burichhu, Tsirang. It weighed in at an impressive 15 Kgs. My tousled hair and sweating red face is evidence of the struggle I went through to land this king of fresh water game fish!

My latest catch of the Golden Mahseer. Landing this beauty was a tough job because it was hooked at a very difficult place in Burichhu, Tsirang. At the end of the struggle, the fish broke one of the three treble hooks of my Balsa wood plug bait called the Jointed Minnow made by Rapala of Finland.

The Mahseer is not all about monsters - cute little babies too are game.

A cute little baby Mahseer weighing about 3 Kgs. After a pat or two, the baby fish is released back to the water.

However, both the monster and the baby are released back to the water - after the photo shoot. This practice is called “Catch-N-Release”. There are others who practice “Catch-N-Haves” :)-

Saturday, July 9, 2016

Journey of Hope and Awakening: Day IX

At about 4:00 PM yesterday, I was informed from Rindibi, Zhemgang that the 20 children and their escorts reached Rindibi safely. They have decided to spend the night there since it is 7 hours of uphill trek to Langdhurbi. The children were met by their parents at Rindibi. By now they would have reached home and narrating their experiences to their friends and families.

I am finally relieved that everything went off smoothly and without any incidence. I was on tenterhooks until the news that they have reached their area safely. Being monsoon, there was always a chance of some mishap. I had made sure that the escorts keep us updated of their movement because I know that the road of good intentions does not always lead to heaven.

They started their journey for Thimphu on the 1st of July and returned home on the 9th July - full 9 days of excitement.

There were many institutions and individual who made this happen. In the coming days, I will be thanking each of them with a list of activities the children did during their time in Thimphu.

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Journey of Hope and Awakening: Day III

The school children from remote Langdhurbi started their third day in Thimphu with a visit to the official residence of Lyonpo Lekey Dorji, Minister of Economic Affairs. Lyonpo Lekey represents the Trong-Bardo constituency to which these children belong. I wasn't around during the visit but  I am sure that the children were happy to have been able to visit the Ministers' Enclave. Even more happier, I am told that they received generous amounts of pocket money and some serious pep talk. In addition, Lyonpo gave the children an inspirational letter each - individually addressed to each one of them. That was a nice touch.

A copy of Lyonpo Lekey's inspirational letter - individually addressed to each children

The children were treated to 5D movie and they had lunch at the Folk Heritage Museum Restaurant at Kawajangsa.

Children having their lunch at the Folk Heritage Museum Restaurant

During the lunch break, they were pleasantly surprised by the visit of their National Council Member Pema Dakpa whom some of the children recognized. The NC Member and his wife handed out a brown envelope each - containing, yet again, generous amounts of cash.

In the evening dinner for the children was hosted by Pedling Hotel.

This morning at 6.30AM I went to the DYS Youth Hostel to bid them goodbye. They go back home today. They will night halt in Gaylephu to-day and tomorrow they will arrive home.

Children all set to return home - they pose before their bus before they start the return journey

A detailed report of this service project by the Rotary Club of Thimphu will be uploaded in the coming days.

This has been a truly fulfilling project. With support from philanthropic donors and supporters, we hope to make this an annual event.

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Journey of Hope and Awakening: Day II

On the second day of their trip to Thimphu, the children of Langdhuri had even better day then their first one. They were treated to lunch at the plush Namseling Boutique Hotel, personally attended to by the well-known owner: Aum Lily Wangchuk.

The Children pose with Aum Lily Wangchuk who treated them to lunch at her Namseling Boutique Hotel

Two generous donors donated a set of Gho and Kira/Toego each to the children while some gifted them shoes and socks and writing stationery.

In the afternoon, they saw a movie at the City Mall and met the movie’s cast for autographs. The Pied Piper Chador Wangmo then took them to animation studios for a treat of animated movies, which they loved.

Their evening tea at the Simply Bhutan - a distinctive ethnic eatery at the YDF - was perhaps the best experience. Here they got to meet their most favorite movie stars: Lhaki Dolma, Sonam Choki, Sonam Tenzin and Tandin Bida. The actors posed for photographs with the children; they danced with them and Lhaki Dolma sang for them. After the group photo, the actors were swamped for their autographs.

The children sang three songs for the movie stars - of which one was a pure ethnic khengpa song.

For children who have not seen vehicle roads, I was amazed to learn that they knew every one of the actors!

 Children being treated to evening tea at the chick Simply Bhutan

Group photo with their favorite movie actors

Movie star Lhaki Dolma signing autographs for the children

 The very pretty Sonam Choki signing autographs for her fans from remote Langdhurbi

 Sonam Choki being crowded by her fans for her autograph

 Movie star Sonam Tenzin signing autographs for the children

 Very popular movie star Tandin Bida signs autographs for the children who are her adoring fans

After tea we moved to Hotel Druk where the children were treated to a sumptuous dinner - compliments of the Hotel. The actors sat chatting with the children through out the dinner.

Actress Lhaki Dolma chatting up the kids during dinner time at The Druk

Star Sonam Tenzin at The Druk Hotel with children during dinner time

Movie star Tandin Bida with the children at The Druk, waiting for dinner

For the children it was a dream experience - for me it is my hope that this exposure would have inspired one or two of them to work hard and study hard to achieve what many they have seen have achieved in their lives.

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Journey of Hope and Awakening: Day I

Ten boys and ten girls from remote Kheng village of Langdhurbi are currently in the capital city. They study at the Langdhurbi Primary School, Zhemgang.

They come from such a remote place that only two from among twenty of them have seen a vehicle road before they came on this trip.

More importantly, some of them are children whose fathers perished in a boat capsize that happened two years back.

The idea of this trip was mooted to me by writer Chador Wangmo, during the 1st Annual Bhutanese Bloggers’ Conference in February, 2016. Given the humane story behind this idea, I proposed the idea to the Rotary Club of Thimphu whose members agreed to put together the logistical and financial support needed to make this happen. Thus this is one of the service projects supported by the Rotary Club of Thimphu, in collaboration with Ms. Chador Wangmo. Chador is currently busy acting mother hen to the twenty children who are being guided to many sites and sounds of Thimphu.

The children are now here and they are loving the experience. There are many people and establishments that have helped make this a reality. A detailed account will be given later.

For now, the highlight of their trip has been the visit to the National Assembly where they met 7 of the 11 of Bhutan’s Cabinet, including the Hon'ble Prime Minister and the Speaker of the National Assembly.
The children with the Hon'ble Prime Minister of Bhutan

 The children with some of the Cabinet Members and the Speaker of the National Assembly

Yesterday they had lunch at the Hotel Jumolhari and they were served dinner at the Hotel Ariya - two of Thimphu’s most elegant hotels. Both the meals were served free by the hotels.

Each of the twenty students received Nu.1,500.00 as spending money.

When you look at the following photographs - remember these children come from a place where they have no roads - they have to walk for 7 hours to reach the nearest road head.

As opposed to that, consider how wasteful and meaningless it is - that the government is contemplating the construction of the illegal Shingkhar-Gorgan road that will devastate the environment while bringing no meaningful benefit to any one. It will bring shame and disrepute to Bhutan and its claim to being a champion of  environmental conservation. If the government has 700 million Ngultrums - that is what they will spend on the disastrous Shingkhar-Gorgan road - they should consider spending half that sum on the most neglected Zhemgang Dzongkhag - to bring road connectivity to the area.

The children ready for lunch at the Hotel Jumolhari where they were also given Nu.1,000.00 each as spending money

 The children waiting for dinner at the Hotel Ariya. The clothing they are wearing were supplied free by some generous garment shops in Thimphu.

 The children having a great time eating ice cream at the Hotel Ariya

The Rotary Club of Thimphu hopes to make this an annual event. We want to bring other children from other remote Dzongkhags to expose them to the possibilities in life - to awaken them to what life can offer them.

Jumolhari Hotel has already committed to be a partner in this initiative - for as long as the program is in place. We know that there are others who have the means and the will to make a difference in the life of less fortunate children who live stranded in remote places with poor access and no hopes of any dreams to dream.

Sunday, June 19, 2016

Full Moon Rising Over Jumolhari Lhakhang

The following are a series of shots of the full moon rising over the mountains in Jumolhari Lhakhang areas. Tourists are not allowed to trek in these areas - perhaps for the reason that it is too close to the Tibetan border. Notice that it took merely 3 minutes for the moon to emerge fully out of the horizon.

It took only three minutes for the full moon to rise fully from behind the mountains

The Jumolhari Lhakhangs (the old and the new) are located at the end of a narrow valley and it is terribly windy. Powerful gusts of wind howl all night long, threatening to blow off the roofs of the Lhakhangs.

Mt. Jumolhari, which looks completely different from the way it looks from Jangothang side, towers over us in the back.

The other face of Mt. Jumolhari - a completely different look

Mt. Jumolhari as seen from Jangothang

Note the date: December 21, 2010. It is thick of winter and everything is frozen. Over the cliff faces, there are oodles of icicles formed by frozen waterfalls.

Frozen waterfall cover most of the rock faces at this time of the year

Few trillion stars throb and sparkle in the clear night sky but photographing them was impossible because the wind is so strong that it is impossible to keep the camera tripod still.

There are two night scenes that I hope to shoot one of these days. One is the full moon setting over Mt. Kanchenjunga. This I would like to shoot from Nop Tsonapatta in Haa. However, my horseman simply would not hear of it - says it is just too cold and that the trail would be iced and slippery, posing danger to the pack ponies.

The other scene I want to shoot is the full moon reflected off the Animo Tso (lake of the nun) at the base of Jule-La in Dhur Tsachu area. I had actually programmed one of my treks in a way that I arrived at the lake on the full moon night. But my companion refused to get out of the tent to help me carry my camera gear – on my own I couldn't handle it. It was too cold and it was impossible for me to carry the tripod and camera and lens and everything. I would have had to walk to the end of the lake and it wasn't easy in the dark with gear to lug around. So I missed the opportunity.

Friday, June 17, 2016

Devastation of Bhutan's Most Famous Trek Route II

I was not aware that the issue was already reported in the Kuensel. One of my readers sent me a link to the Kuensel website where reporter Kinga Dema reports on the matter that was apparently discussed and deliberated upon. And yet, despite all that nothing was done to prevent the systematic destruction of the country’s most beautiful trekking route.

It is sad.

Why should it be any single agency’s responsibility to endeavor to do the right thing? Why should the onus be on the TCB or the ABTO or the JDNP, to take on the responsibility of ensuring less destructive and harmful ways of doing things? From which planet is BPC that they are exempt from their responsibility to ensure that they play their part in doing whatever they can to protect a national resource that will far outweigh every other consideration?

The Kuensel report says that the BPC went ahead and devastated the country’s most famous trek route because some agency did not come up with Nu.755,126.00 for realignment of the transmission lines. That is rather stupid. Because the question then is: why did they align it in a way that would entail expensive realignment, in the first place? Didn't they have sense enough to know or understand the consequences of their folly?

Gem Tshering the Managing Director of BPC told the Kuensel that BPC is under no liberty to change the right of way as frequently as they pleased. That is a stupid argument. The reason is, whether the right of way is by the trek route or through the wilderness, the transmission corridor will require all the trees falling within the corridor to be felled and cleared. So how has he saved or minimized damage to the vegetation? He also states that he is on a dateline to complete the work by 2017. So what he means is that he would cause millions of dollars of loss to the country - in his rush to complete a project within a set time frame?

Why did he not consider taking the transmission line from Guhisawa to Thombushong to Soe and then over the Bonte-La into Jangothang? There would be less destruction since there is hardly any vegetation on that route. Obviously this will be a longer route - but for the sake of the environment, some additional costs can be considered.

Some one rightly told me few days back: The reason why everything is going wrong in this country is because people who are in the decision making positions are people who lack institutional memory - people with crooked minds and no hearts.

Devastation of Bhutan's Most Famous Trek Route

I am perhaps among the very few Bhutanese who have trekked to almost all the highest regions of the country. I have trekked the Tsokar-Tsonag-Terdalhatso-Gosung areas in Singye Dzong. I have trekked the Nagchungla and Jumokungkhar regions in Merak in the eastern parts of the country.

In the central parts of the country, I have trekked to the very base of Gangkhar Puensum - Bhutan’s highest mountain and the world’s highest unclimbed peak, and to Dhur Tsachu Bhutan’s most pristine hotspring, on the route to the world famous Snowman Trek.

In the north-west, I have trekked to the base of Jumolhari, Jichu Drake, Jo Gem, Bonte-La, Lingzhi and Chebesa. I trekked to the base of Masagang, Gungchen-Taag, Tserimgung, Tarigang and  Lunana, including to the very base of Gungchen Singye. In Haa region, I have trekked to Gonzola, Nobtsonapatra, Chundugang, Chundulhatso, Sinchulumpa etc.

Thus, because I have been to most of the treks, I can say that of all the treks, the Jumolhari Base Camp trek is the very best. It is the easiest and the most popular among the tourists with trekking on their itinerary. It is also perhaps the shortest - it can now be done in two days - even by the chilips. A seven year old kid can do the trek with ease!

On the Jumolhari Base Camp trek, one can see the most beautiful views anywhere else. In two days one arrives at a location where one can view: Jumolhari, Bhutan’s second highest peak; Jichu Drake, twin Tsophu Lakes, Bonte-La, Jo Gem, Ngele-La etc. It is for this reason that Jumolhari Base Camp trek is the most popular trek among trekkers - it is short and it is absolutely stunning. One trek group comprising of high end photographers from USA I hosted last year spent entire 6 days in Jumolhari - they refused to move - they were supposed to trek to Lingzhi and then exit through Dodena. They said that they did not believe that there can be a more beautiful place than where they were - Jumolhari base.

Even our Hon'ble Prime Minister one day told me that Jumolhari Base Camp holds the highest potential for tourism and that Bhutan should look at how to develop it to offer better experience to the trekkers.

But now it is being devastated. Look at the images below. The Bhutan Power Corporation chose to build their transmission lines right along side the trekking trails. In the process, the trail is strewn with felled trees. Notice that trekkers who pay thousands of dollars are made to negotiate their trek through a trail that is covered with trees and branches - risking injury and fatality.

Tourists who pay thousands of dollars are made to negotiate their trek through felled trees and logs that are strewn all over the trail - risking injury and fatality.

Felled trees cover the trail route while ugly transmission lines intrude on the trekkers - a far cry from the pristine wilderness that was promised the trekkers

How did the government allow this? The government surely knows the consequences of allowing BPC to destroy the country’s most famous trek route. The BPC should have been more responsible than to cause such destruction to the trail and, ultimately, wipe out Bhutan’s biggest attraction for trekkers.

How is the BPC going to compensate the country for their mindless act? Who was responsible to authorize such destruction? It is not enough to say that service delivery is their responsibility. Service delivery with responsibility should be their first duty.

One tour operator told me that one group has already cancelled their trekking trip to the Jumolhari Base Camp. We will see many more cancellations in the coming months as trekkers become aware of the devastation. Over time, this trek route will no longer draw trekkers - resulting in loss of millions of dollars in revenue. Even more worrisome, Bhutan's image as a champion of environmental conservation will take a beating.

As I said, the Bhutanese tourism industry is targeted for demolition. Look at the road-widening works - it is something that we do not need and yet it has been forced on us. Now the road is all dug up from Thimphu to Trashigang. Journey over these roads are painful, laborious, long and dangerous. The Hon’ble Minister of MoWHS had said last August that the roads will be done in three years time. I have stated that it will not be done in twenty years. She must already get the sneaky feeling that I may be right, because "pre-financing" of the road widening works have already begun.

I wish people would do things with a little bit more sensitivity - put ones heart into what one is doing. Mindlessness is becoming too rampant among the Bhutanese.

Sunday, June 12, 2016

Educated are in rural Bhutan while the literate ones live in the capital city

During my recent visit to see my old man in Mangdechhu, we were sitting outside his home. As we sat there talking of this and that, three Maruti cars pulled up in front of his house and out came close to 15 young men and women, each bearing a machete in their hands. I was surprised and asked him who they were. He informed me that they were all villagers who were returning after working on their farms - that were being prepared for planting cardamom.

I was intrigued - our farmers now drive Maruti cars to work on their farms? That is rich!

Before I could decide what to make of it, my old man interrupted my thought process:

“Yeshey, what do you think of entire villages abandoning farming and planting cardamom in their farmlands - that which were traditionally used for growing food?"

“I suppose we are due for a shift in our dietary habits - from eating rice and kharang to munching cardamoms."

The old man wasn't amused. He went on:

“Get serious ---- if we do not grow food what are we going to eat? We cannot eat cardamom. Such large-scale production of cardamom all around the country is sure to create a glut in the market. Food production will drop thereby requiring us to import food from Jagga’s yuekha. I don't think this is a good thing that is happening. Not only that, you should remember - because you were in the thick and thin of it - that it was the rampant deforestation cause by cardamom plantation that resulted in the Drukgyal Zhipa nationalizing cardamom plantations in 1979."

“Yes I remember."

“Then?” Why wont the government intervene and halt this nonsense? No doubt the government can foretell the trouble this is bound to cause”.

I looked at my 85 years old dad with a sense of wonderment. One would have thought that he would be oblivious to what is happening around him - engrossed as he is, in silent prayers. Obviously the old man still has a mind that is fertile enough to grasp the consequences of abandoning farming, in preference to growing brown jacket cardamom.

Surely, this dismantles the fallacy that educated people live in the urban centers. Clearly, the educated people live in rural Bhutan, while the literate ones throng to the capital city.

Submitting Gracefully to the Inevitable

Last week I had to drive down to Gaylephu to see my aunt who was hospitalized for complex variety of ailments of which none of the children or siblings were sure about. That is the problem with old age - the most obvious reasons are ruled out and the most bizarre reasons are attributed to why they are unwell.

She was in a bad way. When I looked at her heaving away on the hospital bed, first thing I realized was that she was reduced to half her normal size. I took her fragile right palm into mine and asked her:

Nge nge (Aunty) … open your eyes"

She peered at me through her half open eyes. I asked her:

Nge nge, ngo branteh?" (Do you recognize me?)

She said: "Brantah" (Yes I recognize you)

I asked her; “Aai wen teh?" (Who am I?)

“Wangchuk wen tah" (You are Wangchuk)

Yea right!

All her life she loved me like her own son. She defended me against her own children and every other family member who dared speak ill of me. In her eyes I could do no wrong. For all that love and affection, I stood next to her, holding her hand - but totally helpless to do anything else. After over an hour of hovering around her, I decided there was nothing I could do for her. I decided to head for Mangdechhu where her younger brother, my old man, lives.

My dad asked me if I had come to see aunt. I said yes and he asked how she was. I told him she is half her normal size and she is in a bad way. He said:

“Her time has come - she is 88 years old. No need for drama. This is what life is all about -- every birth has to end in death. There is nothing to be sorry about. You should be happy in the knowledge that every breath she took, she uttered your name. What else do you want? Next in line is me - I am 85 years old and that means that I am just about getting there too."

Suddenly I realized this trip that my old man no longer howled his prayers - he read them silently in his mind. May be his body no longer has the energy - or may be after close to four decades of howling his prayers, realization may have finally dawned on him that prayers can be as effective, even if said in silence. Or, may be, he may have got some indication that Gods in heaven have all gone deaf.

I am so glad my old man is ready for the inevitable. It is so much easier when one is prepared for something that cannot be avoided. Such a nice feeling to know that one is able to yield so completely and gracefully to something that no power can prevent from coming to pass.

On my return journey to Thimphu next day, I again stopped by the hospital in Gaylephu to check on my aunt .... this time she recognized me and said that I was Yeshey Dooji (she always pronounced my name Yeshey Dooji - must be the khengpa way) and that she was happy for the visit - Weth Yeshey Dooji wentah --- weth gnath tahro razey neng gaa pa warey.