Wednesday, October 20, 2021

Death By Ladoog II

I am truly concerned by the Bhutanese people’s poor knowledge, or total lack of it, related to Ladoog. Thus I am going to do a series of blogs on matters related to the subject. It is hoped that in so doing, that atleast some of the Bhutanese people will benefit from the transmission of my personal experience and expertise of nearly 7 years of continuous trekking the extreme high altitude regions of Bhutan.

In my 6-years assignment for the government to photograph the high peaks and lakes of Bhutan, I have trekked to almost all the high peaks of Bhutan. One of my treks was for a total of 43 days, without a break. I have trekked over the Gosoong in Singye Dzong, summating over a Pass that is over 5,000 Mtrs. or 16,500 ft. I have climbed to almost the summit of Masagung (7,194 Mtrs.) – when my Bjop horseman from Soe Yaktsa pleaded:

“Dasho – please let me know when you are done – I am feeling so cold I cannot stand it any more” – promptly sticking his head into a hole in the ground to shield himself from the vapor freezing chilly wind battering the mountain side, as I proceeded to plod up the frigid face of Mt. Masagung.

I have trekked to Chundugung, Gonzola, Doklam Plateau, Sinchu Loompa, Chundu Laatso and Nob Tshonapata, in the north of Haa.

Singye Dzong, Terda Lhatso, Gosoong, Tsokar and Tsona in Lhuentse areas of the East.

Sangyegung, Jumokoongkhar and Nagchung-La in Merak, Trashigang.

Juele-La, Dhur Tsachu, and three thirds the height of the great Gangkhar Puensoom at 7,570 Mtrs., in Central Bhutan.

Masagang, Tarigung, Gung-La Karchung, Keche-La, Gungchen Taag, Jumolhari, Jichu Drake, Ngele-La, Bontey-La, Lingzhi Dzong, Tserimgung, Lunana, Gungchen Singye – traipsing shores of Lugo Tso, Rapsthreng Tso and Thorthorme Tso in Lunana and Tsophu Tso in Jangothang in Western Bhutan.

Two trips to Phangu – one of them by helicopter – Bhutan’s richest Cordyceps growing area above Thanza, in Lunana regions of Western Bhutan.

All my above jaunts into the frigid regions of Bhutan’s alpine regions should tell you that I am qualified to speak on matters related to AMS.

Beginning from my next post, I am going to tell of some measures I take to battle the frigid weather conditions and traversing the perilous trek routes – to get to where I want to go – at the bases and above the waist lines of the virginal snow capped peaks and frozen lakes of the country’s extreme North.

For additional reading, try the following:

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2012/10/lingzhi-yugyal-dzong-bhutans-remotest.html

For proof of the pudding, the following are three pages from hundreds of pages of notes taken down in minute detail, during my many treks. These ones on show are from my trek to Signye Dzong - in November of 2006.

Notings of my trek to Singye Dzong in winter of 2006

Over a dozen note books containing details of my many treks to the frigid regions of Bhutan

Imagine, no one dares to go to Singye Dzong in November - except this mad photographer. But clear blue skies, a trillion shimmering stars in the night sky and, frozen, wilting grass blades laden with ice and brooks lined with sparkling frozen banks - they make for great photography!

2 comments:

  1. A truly exciting post, with great promise of so much to be shared as usual. Your sample notes are blurred but probably written with mittens. Please, well-illustrate the coming treks with pages from the notepads and of course with splendidly-captured views. Tashidelek!

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    Replies
    1. Dear Anon,

      Thank you for your visit and comments. The fact that you use the term "mittens" can only mean that you are yourself a trekker of high altitudes. Bu no, I was not using mittens on this trek under reference - Singye Dzong is cold - bu not so cold that I need the use of mittens. The first and last time I needed the use of mittens was when I trekked up the face of Masagung - as described above. That time the chill factor was so severe that I had to use mittens. The reason is that I could not use bare fingers to depress my camera's shutter release button. If I touched the button or the camera tripod - my fingers would stick to the button or the tripod - because of the severe chill. So I used mittens - gloves would not have been effective.

      I was also using the Seattle, Washington based Feathered Friend's Expedition Down Suit that is suited for polar expeditions - upwards of 8,000 Mtrs.

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