Goofs A Galore

If all Bhutanese were to be females, it would appear that we are stuck in the cusp between puberty and womanhood - we appear to be out of puberty but not yet a woman. The following are some examples:

It looks like the team at Thimphu Thromde needs to be re-admitted into school. Science tells us that the color black is the ONLY color that will not reflect heat. The color of rainbow is accepted to be the most beautiful color combination - not a bicolor consisting only of red and green. What is revealing is that the enforcement of this rule does not seem to be applicable to other Thromdes or Dzongkhags since we have not heard of such a requirement being imposed anywhere else. So, is this Thimphu Thromde specific rule? Can such a rule/law be legitimate?

I am told that the social media (where I am not) is ablaze with the issue related to the unfair selection process of the new CEO of BDBL. Now that I saw her photograph, Aum Tshering Om certainly looks winsome - surely she merits to be the new CEO of BDBL. Who is impressed that the matter is still with the ACC? Mr. General Manager Pema Wangdi can go count ducks at the Babesa sewerage ponds.

The Royal Civil Service Commission (RCSC) first entices its members into opting for early retirement - with the promise of financial reward, under their Early Retirement Scheme (ERS). Then when the members do so, the rule is suspended and the promised reward is withdrawn. If that were not enough, the rule is applied retrospectively and some of the members, whose resignations were accepted by the RCSC in writing before the rule came into effect, are denied their rightful ERS benefit.

Other than seeking to be reinstated on the ground that the very purpose for which they sought to retire early is no longer valid, I do not see any way out for the poor blighters. If that right of restitution is also denied them, they have the option to go to Phobjikha to count Black-necked Cranes.

The government encouraged the tourism industry players to create enabling conditions to boost tourism business in the country. One of the sectors targeted was the hotel industry - they were encouraged to upscale their operations and upgrade their properties to 3-Star category. They did - investing hundreds of millions with borrowed capital. Then the government springs a surprise - they introduce SDF of US$200.00 per person per night halt - effectively rendering Bhutan as an expensive destination for tourism.

Tourist arrivals plummet - in frustration and defeat tour operators and guides make a beeline for Australia, while hotel owners are reduced to squashing flies and chasing rodents that now infest their property. The financial institutions’ None Performing Loans (NPL) figures rise to dangerous levels - in its wake setting off alarm bells of a looming economic collapse.

The county’s Foreign Currency (FC) Reserve is on a downhill spiral. The situation is said to be approaching dangerous levels. The cause is blamed on falling inward remittances from Bhutanese abroad. This year, and for many years hereafter, the country is expected to record unprecedented dip in foreign exchange earnings from the tourism sector - by far the single largest foreign exchange earner. Also, what is not publicly admitted is that there is large-scale unreported diversion of FC remittances, to destinations other than Bhutan.

In the meantime, whatever little FC we have is spent on import of luxury goods, such as chocolates, toilet paper, potato chips and facial tissue, manufactured in China and elsewhere. Tragically, we cannot even make an attempt to feed our school children with food that can be grown within our own country - the Ministry of Education continues to spend hundreds of millions of Rupees, year after year, importing unsafe food under their School Feeding Program. And farmers lament that they have no market for their farm produces.

The large-scale exodus of Bhutanese youth to Australia and other destinations is a cause for serious concern. And yet, we cannot ignore the good side of it  - doubtless a strange Catch-22 situation. But this is a situation the government must not try and torpedo. Nor should it ignore it. We must not be too complacent about the happy situation that currently prevails. The government should do all it must - to ensure that the conditions currently prevailing are not jeopardized through lack of monitoring, stewardship and regulation.

It is in our interest to ensure that the goodwill of the Australian people and the government is not abused - it is to our mutual benefit to ensure that the Bhutanese who go there are worthy of their hospitality and that they present Bhutan and the Bhutanese people in the best of light. The responsibility is on them - to ensure that the preferential treatment we have thus far received from Australia, over other nationalities, is not jeopardized.

The 4th Parliamentary Elections are fast approaching. The two elections - to the Upper and the Lower Houses - will cost the nation upwards of hundred million Ngultrum. Do we need this expense at a time when we are going through uncertain times? Can we consider deferring them to a later date when conditions are more favorable? After all, if we weigh the cost against benefit, we will come off worst either way. What meaningful change can be expected from a change in government? - it cannot be anything more than a sheep for a goat.

In the meantime, we must not let our guard down - countries around the world are gearing up to battle the return of the menace called COVID-19.

The Diminishing Allure Of Hydropower

On Thursday, February 22, 2018 I wrote as follows:

"Take, for instance, the matter concerning the de-silting of the dam. How well have they planned/designed it? How effectively are they going to be able to de-silt the mammoth dam of the few trillion tons of silt and muck that will be deposited annually into the belly of the dam, by the flooding Punatsangchhu? Even if they have a good design, where and how are they going to dump the muck?

If the dam ever gets built, what kind of water body is the 130 Mtrs. high dam going to create? How far will the back flow be? Will the water mass trigger earth quakes? Will it alter weather patterns?"

Today, more than five years since, my fears have been proven to be not unfounded. Read the following:

Sedimentation is like pouring sand into a tumbler filled with water. The volume of water drops proportional to the amount of sand poured into it

Bhutan is lucky - in recent years our King has repeatedly cautioned his subjects about the perils of our continued romance with hydropower. We now seem to have accepted that generation of electricity from hydropower is old hat. That it is no longer seen to be economical - technological advances in other forms of energy production has rendered the hydropower redundant, and ecologically unsafe. There appears to be a welcome shift in thinking.

Sadly, something that we cannot escape is the phenomenal cost of decommissioning the dams when their useful life run out. Happily, you and I would be fertilizing some daffodils in some remote wilderness 😂

The Sozzled Himalayan Black Bear

It is bloody amusing! Is it, really? 

First off, have you ever heard of a Himalayan Black Bear getting drunk on XXX Rum (a potent liquor), anywhere else in the world? I have not - it is provably why I must finally accept that Bhutan and the Bhutanese are truly unique.

The case of the drunken bear - proof that their domain is shrinking or that it does not contain food they need for their sustenance

On a serious note, one has to wonder what is a Himalayan Black Bear doing bang in the middle of Bhutan’s largest and most densely populated metropolis? Its rightful domain should be the 70 - 80% forest that we are supposed to have. And this is not the first time it has happened - the last similar incidence was another Himalayan Black Bear that was observed lumbering casually above the IT Park, Babesa in broad day light - at 1.30PM, on 12th December, 2021.

The KUENSEL reported many sightings of the Himalayan Black Bear in the capital city - in places like, Lungtenphu, Serbithang, Upper Motithang, Taba, Chamjeykha, Tango & Chari and Jemina.

It is very simple to understand that wildlife venture out of their comfort zone when their own domain lack the food they need for sustenance - it is then they step into dangerous domains - such as those of the human beings.

Despite our tall claims, incidences such as these clearly indicate that our ecosystem is not as pristine as we say it is. Time is here then that we start to put our money where our mouth is - we cannot hope to put wool over people’s eyes forever. Let us begin to look at the truth and reality squarely in the face - or we will be doomed.

I am now beginning to realize, after more than four decades since, why close to US$5.00 million GWMC project had to go under liquidation, in less than a decade of starting operation in 1982.

I am now wiser why I was called in to be a party to an unthinkable incidence that took place sometime during 1979/1980.

Introduction of Game Fishing in Bhutanese Waters

Recently the Kuensel newspaper featured an article titled “Fly-fishing, a prospective eco-tourism service”. I see a number of problems with the article. It may be that the reporter misreported the matter or the rules may have been framed with an incomplete understanding of the issues related to fishing.

A school of Golden Mahseer jostling towards the tributary river Dhichhu in Wangduephodrang, Western Bhutan. The fish is locally known as Ser Nya.

With specific reference to the Kuensel article, I would like to point out the following:

“Recreational fishing, also known as fly-fishing …..”

This is wrong. Fly-fishing is NOT recreational fishing - it is one of the many forms of fishing used by the angling class of fishermen/fisherwomen - whether for recreation, consumption or for sale.

“According to the regulation, angling for recreation strictly prohibited use of bait of any kind”

This is another problem - how is one supposed to attract and catch fish without the use of baits, also known as lures? The whole enterprise of fishing involves the use of attractive baits - to mislead the fish into believing that it is seeing a sumptuous meal passing by it, or dangling before it. Other than Trap Fishing or Net Fishing, all other forms of fishing use baits to lure fish to bite.

Types of baits

There are two types of baits: Live Bait and Artificial Bait.

Live Baits: These are the bait of choice - for its sheer productivity. However, anglers rarely use them since they are cumbersome and hard to come by. These baits come in various forms:  live worms, fingerlings, prawns, crabs, shrimps, squids, chicken liver, lumps of kneaded dough diced with ant eggs, raw chicken chunks, sliced orange halves, etc. etc.

Artificial baits: These are man-made baits made of none-natural materials. They come in the form of: flies, spinners, spoons, plugs, jigs, etc. etc. Some also come in Balsa Wood in the form of Plugs.

I get the feeling that the rule “strictly prohibited use of bait of any kind” could have been misinterpreted to mean that the use of Live Bait is prohibited. I know of the existence of the rule in Bhutan that prohibits the use of live baits – the logic being that use of live baits kills two lives.

“The angling season is closed during fish spawning in all trout waters in November and December, and for Mahseer water in June, July, and August”

I have always been skeptical about the rule that bans trout fishing during, what the rules state, Spawning Period. In Bhutan, spawning months for Brown Trouts are designated as November and December. Scientific records say that in the Northern Hemisphere, fish spawn during the fall (autumn) months which falls between September 1 to November 30, meaning that Brown Trouts spawn during these months.

Even worst, the banning of fishing for Mahseer during the months of June to August is a terrible idea. The reason is that the Mahseer is a migratory fish and it is said to migrate to its original spawning areas, to perpetuate life. It is known to migrate during these very months.

June – August are monsoon months. During this time, the volume of water in the rivers swell, which enables the Mahseers to travel upstream to the places where they have been spawned. During times when the water in the river is low, these mighty fish cannot make the run, due to their huge size. Therefore, banning fishing during the prime season does not seem like a good idea. Also, researchers are finding that spawning among migratory fish takes place in the tributaries, while fishing is done on the main river.

“They are allowed to use fly-fishing or spin-fishing rods and reels, and artificial flies or lures”

What about Bait-casting Rods and Reels? Why is this excluded from the list? The most used gear for fishing are: Fly-fishing, Spinning-casting and Bait-casting. A rudimentary explanation of fishing and types of gear are given in my following posts:

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/search?q=All+about+fishing

“Only a single barbless hook is allowed for recreational fishing……..”

What about barbless treble or double hooks? Why are these two hooks disallowed? I get the feeling that it is because the philosophy behind the use of barbless hooks is misunderstood.

Types of baits with barbed/barbless hooks

The merit behind use of barbless hooks in Catch-N-Release fishing

Use of barbless hooks is supposed to give the fish a fighting chance at escape. The barbless hook can come off easily when the fish struggles to escape, while the barbed hook will sink deeper even as the fish fights to escape. Thus, particularly in Catch-N-Release fishing, no damage will be caused to the fish while unhooking for release. The barbed hook, on the other hand, could cause bleeding while trying to unhook the fish since it is not easy to unhook a barbed hook.

Particularly where an angler is inexperienced, he/she may not be able to set the hook in a way that it will not cause damage to the fish. A damaged or bleeding fish is a dead fish - irrespective of whether you release it back into the water or not.

An experienced angler ought to know the proper way of releasing a fish back into the water - there are precautions to be taken while doing so. If the angler does not know, do our fishing guides know? If not they have to be instructed suitably.

Catch-N-Release fishing as a high-end tourism product

I am encouraged that the government is going to allow game fishing in the country. It is a good move. Now lets see we do a good job of it - by making sure that we do not hash it up with unreasonable and impractical rules and regulations.

Nuns To The Rescue

Yesterday morning a Ministry of Health worker joked that his Ministry is hoping to enlist the help of the country’s substantial nun population of childbearing age to abandon their vows of celibacy, and start to get pregnant. He sees that as a real possibility for his Ministry to achieve its latest mandate - to restock the country’s plummeting population through increased childbirth.

It is not funny that we are driven to such outlandish thoughts. Beyond funny, we have to begin to worry: how did we allow ourselves to arrive here?

I can think of two reasons: (1) young couples now view the act of procreation as something of an economic burden that they are unwilling or incapable of shouldering; (2) the steady outflow of human capital - as high as 10%.

Demographic imbalance and plummeting population: Case of Japan

Japan’s trade ministry projects that by 2025, around 630,000 profitable businesses could close up shop, costing the economy $165 billion and as many as 6.5 million jobs. The cause: lack of people of right age to continue the business.

Hidekazu Yokoyama, 73, is a poignant example. He built his successful logistics business over three decades. Last year when he wanted to resign, his children were not interested in the business, nor others. Thus he decided to advertise the business and GAVE IT ALL AWAY, FREE, to a 26 years old dark-horse applicant!

Exodus of Bhutanese youth

This is a time bomb waiting to explode. The most galling problem associated with this situation is likely to come from the most unlikely sources.

What if Australia is hit by a natural calamity so horrendous that we need to evacuate our people from there, en masse? What do you think will be the fallout of such an eventuality? Trust me, it will not be as simple as that when we undertook the evacuation of some 17 odd dozen of our girls from the Middle East. The economic devastation that will be caused by a situation in Australia will be few thousand folds more severe. That is likely to be the final straw on the back of the camel.

It is for this reason that I suggested that someone respected, influential and charismatic in Bhutan should go to Australia to talk to our brood there.

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2022/08/continue-to-keep-in-straight-and-narrow.html

I am under no illusion that the Bhutanese who may eventually return will come back with the same face and heart as that with which they departed the country. But it is my hope that there will still be some telltale remnants of Bhutaneseness in them, which is more than what can be expected, given the reality of the situation.

Information Blackout

There cannot be any other explanation - the government has unwittingly admitted that they are doing something clandestine behind the backs of the citizens. If not, I cannot imagine why the government has any need or reason to be so secretive about things from the very people in whose interest they are supposedly doing whatever they are doing.

Shhhhhhh .... kept it secret!

Before the advent of parliamentary democracy in the country, the institution of Anti Corruption Commission (ACC) was conceived and established, as a body to combat and prevent corruption. This was timely and the perception that democracy is likely to usher in an era of corruption and misuse of power was not unfounded. However, their role was that of a sentinel - not a law making body. Nowhere in their mandate (at least in what is on display) is it written that law making is part of their function or role, other than to enact rules and regulations designed specifically to prevent and combat corruption.

The Law in the wrong hands

Creating the enabling conditions to legitimize concealment of information from the fourth estate and the citizens is the very antithesis to what is at the core of their functions: combating corruption through ensuring that affairs are conducted in a fair, just and lawful manner.

Hiding and withholding useful and pertinent information from the people can deprive them of their most fundamental right - the right to information sanctified by the Constitution. Withholding information can lead to miscarriage of justice - through ignorance of the real truth. It will cause policy failures because they are based on half-truths, or untruths.

The cascading effect of one faulty policy can result in a hundred flawed public perceptions - because the citizens’ perceptions are formed in an atmosphere of secrecy and concealment.

When Bhutan started the discussion on the merits and demerits of introducing the Right To Information Act (RTI Act) sometime beginning 2011, I was the lone voice - opposing its introduction, tooth and nail. I still believe that we are not ready for it - in spite of the occasional policy misadventures.

Please read my opposing views at the following:

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/search?q=RTI+Act

The rule of the ACC ordering complete blackout of information to the fourth estate and the general public does not bode well for the country. It is creating an unfamiliar condition in which the people may be driven to clawing for something that they had received without contest, in the past.

The make of the Bhutanese DNA is wondrous 😝 - you do not want to wake the slumbering Lucifer lurking within the chromosomes.

Take Your Pick: Life or Livelihood?

Do not forget to T~H~I~N~K!

Not many years back a friend was offered a job in the US of A - at a salary of US$8,000.00 per month. This is a humongous sum by any Bhutanese standards. My friend sought my advice:

“Do I accept it and go?”

It was not in my place to offer him any advice. Thus, in answer, I posed him a number of questions of my own:

“You live in a luxury apartment in an exclusive locality in Thimphu and pay a monthly rent of US$197.00. What would a similar luxury apartment in Washington DC cost you?”

“In Thimphu, at US$650.00 a month you are a Dasho, with an entitlement of a chauffeur driven car and unrestricted entertainment allowance. At US$8,000.00 a month, what will be your standing in the US of A?”

“In Thimphu, in less than 10 minutes, you are delivered safely to your office, in the comfort of your office allocated vehicle. By contrast, how long would it take you to drive to your office in Washington DC, provided it is feasible to drive to work. If not, would you be willing to tolerate the hardship and inconvenience of commuting by public transport?”

“In Thimphu should you fancy an afternoon of leisurely fishing, you have the choice of two sparkling rivers in which to fish. You can be by the riverbanks of any of the two rivers - in less than half an hour - swinging your G. Loomis fly rod and landing trophy-sized Brown Trout by the dozen. Can you afford such luxury in the US of A?”

“In Thimphu’s best of eateries, you can order your favorite Golden Fried Prawns for less than US$7.00 a serving. By comparison, in the US of A, you pay upwards of US$23.80. At that price will it still seem palatable?”

“From Thimphu you can make a visit to your village within a day - to be with your aging parents. What will it take for you to be with them, if you were in the US of A, should their health fail and they wish you to be by their sides to listen to their parting words?”

“Being disconnected from home, what is the guarantee that your marriage will not break up, that your children will not take to drugs and violence? Do you have the emotional fortitude to take on the onus for the failures? Do you need the weight of burden of irresponsibility - for the broken home and your children missing out on the best times of their lives - their childhood? How would you respond when they pin the responsibility squarely on you - for their failure in life, caused by your failure to provide them parental guidance, when they needed the most?”

“I know that it is within the capability of each of us to be able to mask the pain and agony behind the sparkle. But how many of us can survive the loss of everything else but a bundle of cash in our clutches?”

“Thus, the question is not of whether you should, or should not, go. The more pertinent question is:

What do you choose? What should matter to you more?

Life? Or livelihood?”

Remember, with choice, it is either right or it is wrong. Until the choice is made, you have all the opportunity in the world to consider your options. However, once the choice is made, if it happens to be the wrong one, your GOOSE IS COOKED - IRREVERSIBLY!

Precisely why I keep repeating again and again and again - do not be caught having to say you are sorry - by then it would be too late. Remember, luck is not a very dependable vehicle to ride on - it is prone to mishaps.

PS: The friend who inspired this post never took up the job offer.

A Happy & Prosperous 2023

To wake up to more than a hundred NEW YEAR WISHES from friends and family left me feeling with a sense of forlorn longing - a mood of unfilled emptiness. Not a good feeling to start off a new year. On the bright side, I am happy I still have a feeling or that I am capable of one.

I have a long time back learnt that there comes a time in a man’s life when one realizes that one’s life is no longer in ones control - others and events take control of it and direct it to directions one never intended.

There is no dearth of people who will tell you that no matter what, one is the master of one’s destiny. How fortunate that they have the luxury to speak thus - obviously their lives have been one without loitering - a steady, placid thud on a straight line. Had they tried a detour through the mysterious lanes and by-lanes of life, they would have known and felt the despair of being stranded in the middle of wilderness - at a crossroad to nowhere.

But there is no escaping life - everyone has to live it. How one lives it is a matter of how one interprets the meaning and purpose of life. And how you look at life will determine what you wish for the NEW YEAR.

Mine are as follows:

I wish that I have good health and energy to live a meaningful life;

I wish that life gives me another twelve months at the end of this year,

           so that I am able to make another wish for another 12 months of useful life;

I wish that I continue to have the strength to fight the temptations to do the vile and the immoral;

I wish that I have the wisdom to distinguish between my needs and my wants;

I wish that I do not forget that there are others whose needs are greater than mine;

I wish that I will never for a moment forget that life would be happier if my wishes are simpler and modest;

I wish that I have friends who do not tell me that he/she did not have 10 seconds to write me a line,

           or to wish me HAPPY NEW YEAR;

I wish that I have friends and well wishers who have the sensitivity to personally write out a line, a verse -

           to contribute to the meaning of life, instead of sending me forwards from some unknown people;

I wish that what I do and say will contribute to a progressive Bhutan and contented Bhutanese,

           without whom all my wishes would be meaningless.

My School Principal: 52 Years On, You Are Still In My Thoughts

Respected Sir,

Thank you for your mail and the good wishes. I wish you and Madam Joyce the same.

What does one call it - good fortune? honor? privilege? - that one receives a loving mail from one’s school Principal of over half a century back; that even after more than 52 years of having parted ways, each of our hearts are still brimming with thoughts of each other.

Consider that the world today is populated with 8.07 billion people. Of that many, I ask you - what percentage of school Principals are likely to remember how many of their students of over half a century? Likewise, how many of the 8.07 billion people in this world today would have the sense of gratefulness to remember their school Principals, even after more than half a century has gone by?

It is something to ponder over and marvel at: what enthuses bonds and connections so strong that they encompass many decades and timespan - that too even while being separated and divided by many oceans and time zones?

As I had written to you some years back, the most impactful event in my life was the need for you to leave our school - in response to a higher calling. Quite obviously, without my knowing (I was then too young to know my own mind), your departure from the school broke my heart so completely that I too decided to leave school a year later - I did not care what I wanted to do with my life - more accurately I did not know what life was all about. Fortunately, my life turned out to be more satisfying than I would have ever had the sense to hope for.

Purportedly, I made a negative decision caused by a situation occasioned by your departure - but I have never for once had any doubt that there was the hand of destiny at play - that it was Karmic that you should depart our school and cause me heartbreak. Without that, I would have never had the occasion, or the reason, to embark on my maiden journey of life - as I did - at a time and place when I did, and arrive where I have. That singular incident set me off on a most fulfilling journey across the seven seas; landed me on the shores of places prettier and more beautiful than the Last Shangri-La, and placed me in the company of people and personalities who helped me understand why life was precious, why the obvious path to choose should be the path of service and humility. Why life must be lived to the fullest, and with courage and noble intentions.

I Thank You for your role in making my life whole. And Thank You for making me feel so SPECIAL.

From all reports, the typical bitter cold and moist English winter will likely be even more so this year. It is my hope that Madam Joyce would derive warmth and comfort from the woolen jacket I chose for her, during your last trip to Bhutan. Even more important, I hope she is able to make another journey soon - for the prospect of a reward of yet another woolen jacket - even warmer and comfier than the last 😅

I remain, yours in gratefulness,

Yeshey Dorji

Student

Class of 1968 - 1971

Gawpey School, Paro

An Uncommon Act Of Nationalism

Far removed from the madding crowd - atleast a good hundred kilometers to south of the capital city Thimphu, in a remote village located in a region extremely shorn of vegetation, stands a shanty little dwelling hammered together with rusted corrugated iron sheets and old used tin panes. Standing firmly and regally atop its craggy roof was our national flag fluttering vigorously in the afternoon wind.

An uncommon national flag

Celebration of nationhood. That may be so but the overhead high voltage power transmission line passing over the home seems dangerously too close to the CGI roof. The Dzongkhag Administration should require the power line to be relocated to a safer location - before an accident occurs. Metal/CGI sheets are known to be good electrical conductors.

The day was 19th December 2022 - just two days past our 115th National Day. Thus, the national flag fluttering above any old rooftops should not be a cause for the excitement of my imagination. But it did. There was something curious about the dainty little flag fluttering happily in the wind. Although I was intent upon arriving at my destination to shoot a special bird, which was still a good hour’s drive away, I stopped my car and walked back to take a closer look at the flag. I was right - this flag was without doubt uncommon - it had the word BHUTAN printed on it.

As we all know, our national flag does not need to be printed with the word BHUTAN to identify it with the country - it does so by its unique and distinctive colors. So then why was this flag printed with the words BHUTAN? I was puzzled - until it dawned on me what the fluttering piece of colorful fabric was.

It took my breadth away when I realized that I was witness to an uncommon act of nationalism - and that too at a most unlikely location, and from a person in whose station such emotions are believed to be most unlikely. I was touched deeply by his act of celebration of his kingdom's nationhood - something that many of us fail to do - either consciously or unconsciously.

I can guess that the owner of the house was either too poor to afford to buy a real flag to hoist over his rooftop on the National Day or, he did not have access to a flag, being so remotely located as he was. Thus, in my understanding, he did what would have without doubt caused him much anguish - he decided to tear apart a prized possession - a colorful drawstring bag fashioned after our national flag (most likely manufactured in Bangkok) - with the word BHUTAN printed on it.

For a villager of his meager means, shredding apart such a special possession would have been heart wrenching - but evidently he did, nonetheless. Because obviously for him, the symbolism behind the act of hoisting the national flag to celebrate the National Day was much more meaningful, than a bag that would have, in all likelihood, remained mostly unfilled.

When my day was done, on my return journey I once again passed by the shanty home located in the village of Chumelakha under Darla Gewog, Chhukha Dzongkhag. I was intent on speaking with its owner - Mr. Bal Kumar Karki - to applaud him for his most noteworthy act. Sadly, the man was still not at home - my loss.

A famous Buddhist Parable:

One day God in heaven looked down on Bhutan to see how many of his devotees had offered him butter lamps on this holy day. He was most pleased to notice that a countless number of his devotees had offered him few thousand “Karmé Tong Choe” - Thousand Butter Lamps - spread across many regions of the country.

But among the millions of butter lamps that was lit on the day - the one that shone the brightest and the longest, was the solitary lamp that was lit by an aged abandoned woman - fueled by the last few drops of Shingmar oil she was using to oil her freshly washed hair.

Not The Complete Truth!

I find that today’s report by the Kuensel or, more accurately, the report by the Centre for Bhutan & GNH Studies on the causes for the drop in Yak rearing in our alpine highlands is incomplete, at best. I would like to attempt to complete the list by adding the following causes that have been poorly reported, or missed out entirely.

Disenchanted by Yak herding!

An incomplete report on the issue

• I believe that at the top of the list is the economic competence afforded by the income from annual Cordyceps harvest from their regions, authorized/legitimized during early 2000s. The highland Bjops as a community are now richer than their lowland Ngaspos (hosts) who host them during the winter months when they migrate for few months. These Bjops now own a number of multi-storied buildings in urban centers such as Trongsa, Bumthang, Wangdue, Punakha, Paro, Trashigang, Mongaar etc.
• Some of the Bjops have made permanent relocations to low lands, upon becoming owners of land and other properties - thus abandoning their traditional yak rearing occupation.
• The yaks’ traditional pastureland where they use to graze has seen invasion by hundreds of pack ponies from the low lands. These ponies compete with the yaks for the scantily available grass. During one of my trips to the remote alpine regions, I have seen quarrel breakout between the yak herders and the pony drivers. The yak herders claim ownership right over the grazing space - while the pony drivers contend that their ponies cannot be denied right of nourishment. At one point I had to pay the yak herders compensation for the grass consumed by over a dozen of my pack ponies because I believed that the yak herders’ rights precedes that of the pony drivers.
• Thousands upon thousands of Cordyceps collectors storm the mountainsides during the Cordyceps collection months that illegally extend over three months. During these periods, the collectors use up huge amounts of a low-lying alpine bush called “Pam” - for use as fuel wood. This renders the topsoil barren of cover for regeneration of much needed grass for consumption by the yaks, also causing erosion over time.
• Something that I had never realized before was the fact that a large number of the yaks reared in the high mountains are owned by the monk body and the powerful and rich families in the low lands - only a limited number of the yak herders actually own the yaks they herd under extreme climactic and weather conditions. These traditional part time owners are now abandoning the occupation - for better opportunities and as a result of economic gains afforded by the cordyceps collection.
• On one of my trips to Merak’s highest peak - Mt. Jumo Koongkhar, I spent a few nights at a yak herding family’s camp. I was witness to a brutal predation on few yaks by the Black Bears - this was the first time I realized that bears were not entirely herbivores, as I had believed. I am told that this is a regular problem with the yak herders.

Perhaps it is time for the government to take a closer look at the consequences of the changing habits of the Bjops.

Duty Free Quota is also HISTORY!

On November 16, 2022 I was elated to have been able to write about the relegation of the state-sponsored corruption called the Car Quota Entitlement to the morgue - after close to half a century of misuse and abuse. But I was a tad disappointed that the Duty Free Quota did not go the same way. No doubt the Duty Free Quota is an evil at a much, much lesser degree - but nonetheless an evil that should have no place is a society that prides itself at being an epitome of Drungnam and Drungdoen. The existence of such a system of preferential treatment among equals is not a sign of a progressive society.

Going, going, GONE!

Happily, the Honorable Prime Minister has now announced in yesterday’s (09.12.2022) Kuensel that the Duty Free Quota would be buried as well - w.e.f. January, 2023. I cannot understand - unless it is designed to suppress and subjugate the poor and the incapacitated - that such a system can find acceptance in a society that aspires to be among the very best in the world. I accept that we can be - but the paper tigers will have to start to emerge out of the closets and do their share - instead of being the habitual piggyback riders.

Announcement of the burial of Duty Free Quota w.e.f. January 2023

No government in the past has had it as tough as the DNT. The COVID-19 pandemic has well and truly stolen their thunder. It is immaterial whether anyone accepts it or not - what is undeniable is that the DNT government simply did not get the opportunity to prove themselves, despite the chance that was offered them. Whether they would have performed under ideal conditions will have to remain mute for now - no one may claim the powers of a soothsayer to tell for sure. 

Look at their record - no other government in the past has dared implement the policies the DNT did - I believe that none in the future are likely to dare, not at this level. Towards the delicate period of the end of their tenure the policies they put into place, the groundbreaking changes they introduced – what can be said of them? Trailblazing! Selfless and courageous! No politics!

It has to be seen if the Bhutanese people are educated enough, and has the wisdom to be grateful for what the DNT did during such a painful period in our history. Regardless, one thing is for sure - from where I stand, at the end of their political term, the Members of the DNT can walk away with their heads held high, and with a sense of absolute satisfaction in the knowledge that whatever little opportunity they had in which to do, they took it to do good for the country and the people of Bhutan.

Ofcourse they are not without failures - one most telling is their failure in the transformation of the tourism sector. The best they could do was to transform the TCB into a department with a multi-colored name that is glaringly un-Bhutanese. Putting them under a Ministry was a good move - but not redefining and streamlining their roles and functions will continue to perpetuate the rot in the industry. To be fair, it is not the people at the TCB - but the confused mandate that they have been straddled with.

Mother Earth: Pregnant with Beer Bottles

More than a dozen years back (July 2010), I reported about rural Bhutan being used as burial grounds for empty glass beer bottles. Please read about it at:

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2010/07/plastic-wrappings-and-buried-beer.html

What I reported above pertains to an act of a village bootlegger - in the remote village of Kheng Nimshong in Zhemgang. In all fairness, what the man did was an act borne of innocence - he would not have known any better.

It is likely that few million glass beer bottles may remain buried inside our forests across the country

But what is the excuse for the government to do nothing to mitigate such eventualities? Obviously if a clueless Khengpa is doing it in Zhemgang, a Sharchop in remote Sharchok could well be doing the same. So would a Lhotshampa in the South and Bjops in Laya, Lingzhi, Merak and Sakteng, in the North.

Empty beer bottles are heavy, brittle and their resale value is not worth all the trouble of delivering them to the scrap dealers in urban centers. So they end up strewn all over the forest floor and, even worst, deep inside trenches dug into the belly of the earth.

Can we do something about it, for the sake of our environment? Remember - we are known the world over as the champions of environmental protection - we have prestigious awards to prove that!

How about introducing a rule that would require the beer manufacturers/importers to maintain a monetary deposit with the government - for every glass bottle they release into the market. The manufacturer/importers in turn should hold a like sum in deposit from their Distributors, so that every bottle they lift is required to be deposited back with the manufacturers/importers, failing which the deposit gets deducted by the pre-determined value of shortfall in the number of empty bottles. Likewise, the distributors/dealers impose a similar requirement on their retailers.

The manufacturers/importers should not be affected by the rule since the deposit is passed on down the marketing channel. The beer consumer should not be affected greatly since the deposit requirement is likely to impact the pricing of the beer only marginally, if at all. If it does, tough shit!

Today, given the changing taste of the Bhutanese drinkers, I am told that beer is THE alcohol of choice among rural Bhutanese. I understand that the lowly Aara is now infra dig!

Is the ongoing transformation exercise likely to transform anything in Bhutan at all? Or, is it going to be the case of whole lot of EFFICIENCY without EFFECTIVENESS!

Let us dispense with the verbosity - it is time to get down to action for a change!

NOW Is The Time To Visit The World’s Last Shangri-La

Hi …….. ,

 

Thank you for your mail.

 

I am happy to learn that you are interested in visiting Bhutan.

On the outset I would like to state that it is indeed timely that you are considering visiting Bhutan at this time. As your friend who recommended me to you would have told you, Bhutan is still relatively unblemished  - we still have an unhurried and laid-back way of life; we still pride that we are a country where culture and tradition matter and that contentment is not measured by the level of material success - all of which point to the fact that we are a country that is at the cusp of madding modernity.

 

Sadly, all that will change in the next few years - and modernity will surely render us as unique as everyone else. That is why I say that it is timely that you have decided to visit Bhutan NOW.

Bhutan's woven textiles: Weaving artistry at its superlative

Before we go any further, I would like you to consider that visiting Bhutan will set you off by a minimum of US$400.00 per night halt, per person - on a twin room sharing basis. However, this amount will cover almost everything: government royalty in the form of SDF, hotel accommodation in 3-star hotels, guide, conveyance to any part of the country, meals, soft drinks, bottled processed water, laundry etc. Visits to cultural sites are NOT included, and any special interest activities will attract additional charges, over and above the minimum US$400.00.

 

Does this amount seem like a reasonable sum for an experience that we believe few other countries in the world are likely to match? If yes, next questions to consider are:

 

What will be the duration of your visit?

 

Which month do you plan to make the journey?

 

What are your core interests? - it is inconceivable that you can hope to cover everything in a single visit. Thus you will have to decide what are at the top of your wish list: bird watching, nature, hiking/trekking, festivals, game fishing, whitewater rafting etc. Your interest will determine the month of your visit but as a pointer the most productive months are March/April and October/November.

 

It is said that Bhutan as a tourist destination is a once-in-a-lifetime affair - not because the cost is prohibitive but because of the remoteness of the location and the mystique surrounding the country - some have likened us to the mythical last Shangri-La. Ofcourse we are not mythical - we are here and now. And, what is our appeal? Please ask your friend who just returned to the USA - after her fourth repeat visit to the country.

 

Once I have your answers to my above four questions, we can take the discussion further.

 

Bye and take care.

Doongchoong Taagla Thrikar: Bhutanese Army General In The Employ Of Gesar Of Ling

Years of relentless research into the history of coinage in Bhutan has taken me to destinations never before imagined, and connected me to people I had never before known or heard of. But all of them were rewarding and wondrous to say the least. What is even more phenomenal is that my quest put me face to face with a piece of incredible history that dealt with the history of my family and lineage – that of Taagma Doong.

A year or two back, one Bhutanese scholar had told me that the only Bhutanese who qualified to serve in the army of Gesar of Ling was from the family of Taagma Doong, that his name was Doongchoong Taagla Thrikar.

Gesar of Ling

Since I am the surviving head of one branch of Taagma Doong, I kept a look out for any material related to the issue. Then a week back I got to know of a western scholar/researcher/historian doing research on the Epic of Gesar of Ling. I wrote to the person for validation on the matter and the following is the response I got:

Hi Yeshey,

I hope you will excuse how long this took me. I've been busy and spending time with family (a rare treat.)

I was able to find the general you were speaking of. His name in Tibetan is:

and according to my notes he is "originally from Mön but a brother of Gesar."  So the "brother" thing isn't a blood lineage, this will refer to previous life and karmic connections. As for being Bhutanese, it's important to remember that 1000 years ago borders were different and often didn't matter: it was your tribe and community. So we know that Taklha Trikar was from Mön, but this wasn't really a region at the time so much as a kingdom united by ethnicity. According to what I can find there was a "monyul" or "lhomon" at the time of Gesar located partially in Modern Bhutan and that in the 11th century they converted to Buddhism, which matches with Gesar's timeline of Buddhist conversions in the region.

What does this mean? Nothing 100% solid. As a historian, I believe there is very good evidence for the existence of King Gesar and for his conquests. And this timeline definitely defends a general from Mon becoming a member of Gesar's kingdom. It's not proof for or against, but it's definitely possible and I would even argue likely. So basically what you've been told about your family clan and lineage is absolutely possible! The name is there, the history matches, the locations are correct.  I don't have a time machine, so I can't say 100% if something is true or not, but the info matches.

What a cool family history!

I hope this helps!

Sincerely,