Mr. Narendra Modi’s Visit to Bhutan

I cannot remember when Bhutan was so gripped by a sense of dread – as it is this very minute – at the possibility that the visit of the Indian Prime Minister His Excellency Shri Naredra Modi might yet again be postponed. To the disappointment of hundreds of thousands of Bhutanese who were eagerly awaiting his arrival, it has already happened once before. A second time would be twice too many!

That Mr. Modi is loved and valued in Bhutan is amply evident in the elaborate reception that has been planned for his much-awaited arrival. On a visit to Paro two days back – I was WOWED by the endless string of welcome flags that have been strung up – all the way to Paro – a staggering 57 KMs distance! I tried to keep count of the Welcome Gates that dot the landscape – between Thimphu to Paro – after 6, I lost count!

One of the first activities I performed upon putting on my mobile phone early this morning was to scan the Weather Forecast – I was pleased that the weather was going to be fine – from now to all the way to 12 noon. That is all I cared – after Mr. Modi lands, the Choichongs (as Mr. Sangay of Haa Wangcha would put it) can do what they damn well please.

The heavens are smiling!

Looks like I am not the only one anxious about the morning’s weather – Dasho Kuenzang Wangdi also sent out a groggy looking photograph in our group chat - of the sky south to his domicile – a patch of blue peeping out the otherwise cloud-spangled sky. He remarked:

Sunshine

National Day of Bhutan

On 17th of December, 1907, entire population of Bhutan represented by 47 of their representatives congregated in Pungthang Dechen Phodrang Dzong to install Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary Monarch of Bhutan. The day marked the start of the Wangchuck Dynasty under whose successive rulers Bhutan saw a period of peace, tranquility and progress.

His Majesty Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck the Ist King of Bhutan

According to available information, Bhutan celebrated our National Day for the first time on 17th December, 1971. Today the 17th of December, 2023 we will be celebrating our 116th National Day.

One hundred and sixteen years ago, the peoples’ representatives, including the regional rulers and administrators, and the monk body, affixed their respective seals to the following Declaration of Allegiance - installing Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary King of Bhutan:

The "Gyenja" executed on 17th December, 1907 at Pungthang Dechen Phodrang Dzong

Those of you who can read the "Gyenja" will notice something intriguing: Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck has been named as "Sir Ugyen Wangchuck". Even the date of the "Gyenja" has been recorded in the Gregorian calendar. I wonder if that was done due to the presence of his good friend J C White? Regardless, one Bhutanese scholar tells me that the language of the "Gyenja" is truly outstanding - far superior to anything he has seen so far.

The signatories to the document, including the foreign dignitaries, were recorded as follows:

1. Seal of The Monk Body         Je and the Lopoens

2. Seal of Choetse Poenlop         Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck

3. Seal of Zhoong Droenyer         Tshewang Penjor

4. Seal of Thimphu Dzongpoen Kuenzang Thinley

5. Seal of Punakha Dzongpoen Palden Wangchuk

6. Seal of Wangdue Dzongpoen Kuenzang Norbu

7. Seal of Rinpoong Chila         Dawa Penjor

8. Seal of Daga Chila                 Tshewang Dorje

9. Seal of Gongzim                         Kuenzang Tshering

CLASS II OFFICIALS

10. Seal of Zhoong Droensop         Shar Tshering

11. Seal of Tapoen                         Rigzin Dorje

12. Seal of Zimpoen Nam                 Namgyal

13. Seal of Japoen                         Samdrup

14. Seal of Punakha Zimpoen         Kuenleg

15. Seal of Punakha Ngyerpa         Sangye Thinley

16. Seal of Gasa Dzongpoen         Dargo Ngoedrup

17. Seal of Thimphu Zimpoen         Sithup

18. Seal of Thimphu Ngyerpa         Phurpa Tashi

19. Seal of Lingzhi Nyerpa         Taya Gup

20. Seal of Wangdue Zimpoen         Tshewang Doendrup

21. Seal of Wangdue Nyerpa         Garpon

22. Seal of Paro Droenyer         Pelzang

23. Seal of Paro Nyerpa                 Yeshe

24. Seal of Paro Zimpoen                 Sigyel 

25. Seal of Drugyal Dzongpoen Samten Yoezer

26. Seal of Haa Droongpa         Ugyen

27. Seal of Daga Zimpoen         Dorje

28. Seal of Daga Nyerchen         Wangpo

29. Seal of Trongsa Zimpoen         Dorje

30. Seal of Jakar Dzongpoen         Chime Dorje

31. Seal of Zhongar Dzongpoen Dorje Penjor

32. Seal of Trashigang Dzongpoen Sonam Tshering

33. Seal of Lhuentse Dzongpoen Thinley Gyamtsho

34. Seal of Zhemgang Dzongpoen Karma

CLASS III OFFICIALS

35. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Punakha Dzong

36. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Tashichho Dzong

37. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Wangdue Dzong

38. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Trongsa Dzong

39. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Paro Dzong

40. Seal of all subjects of                 Wang Tshochen Gyed

41. Seal of all subjects of                 Thed Dargyed Chusoom

42. Seal of all subjects of                 Sha Dar Gyed

43. Seal of all subjects of                 Barkor Tsho Druk

44. Seal of all subjects of                 Gyue Zhi of Haa

45. Seal of all subjects of                 Tsentog Ling Druk

46. Seal of all subjects of                 Sharchog Kholo Sip Gyae

47. Seal of all subjects of                 Three Lings of Daga

It is not clear if they were official guests of the British Empire - but it is recorded that the following were present during the occasion:

i. John Claude White CIE, British Political Officer based in Sikkim

ii. Major Renik

iii. Mr. Campbell

iv. Captain Hyslop

v. Zarwala Suvidar Jihaden Khanna

vi. Rai Bahadur Lobzang Choeden

From all indications, the 116th National Day Celebrations will be an event unlike any before it. Even better, His Majesty the King is rumored to be announcing some major economic initiatives – such as the much-anticipated final plans of the Gelephu Administrative Region. Thus, I am honored to be able to attend it - from within the Changlemithang celebration grounds.

The Invitation Card to the 116th National Day Celebrations. Whoever was responsible for the design and printing of the Card – he/she has done a great job - it is such a pleasure to see someone do such an exquisite job: the choice of paper, its size, its texture, weight and the choice of font is simply superlative!

The Incredible Snowman Race

I did not believe that this could be done - until it was announced. The trek takes anywhere from 25 to 28 days at a normal pace – to attempt to do it in five days and actually accomplish it, is nothing short of a superhuman fit. I wait to see who and, how many, will remain standing at the end of the race period - 17th October, 2022 which is today.

There is nothing not to admire about these racers - they are attempting to achieve something God never intended should be a normal human activity. Having myself plodded through all the regions that the racers will pass through during the race, I pay obeisance to these super athletes for their superhuman capacity and endurance.

To me it is of no consequence who wins the race - but that they have the level of fitness, tenacity, determination and the will power to successfully complete the race. I do not believe that the Snowman Race trail is the world’s toughest on its own merit - but for the fact that the distance is being conquered in the time frame of five days. That is the incredible thing!

A reputed international magazine contacted me - wanting to know if I would be interested to cover the race on their behalf. I said, YES!!! YES!!! YES!!. I told them that I already have all the passive footages they will need - from my treks into the alpine wilderness traversing the entire length of the race trail. The only thing is that I will need minimum of two helicopter rides – one to the top of Keche-La in Lunana areas, and another to the top of Jueley-La in Dhur areas, so that I am able to capture the racers on the go. The scene I would have been able to capture from the Jueley-La top as the racers snake up from Jueley Tsho to the top of the Pass, and then descend down to Animo Tsho would have been breathtaking. Racers racing upto the Kechey-La as they pass the lake on their right and then plunge down the Pass, would show some stunning scenes!

For whatever reason the magazine decided not to go through with the plan - my loss 😓

Lake below Kechey-La Pass

Tarigung with the twin Tari Tsho in the foreground

Lunaps engaged in a game of archery, with Gungchen Singye in the background

Day break at Animo Tsho below Jueley-La

Something puzzles me: the fact that close to 50% of the international racers - no question they have got to be among the world’s most competent extreme altitude racers - had to withdraw on grounds of HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Thank God there has been no fatalities so far. Didn’t the racers acquaint themselves with the altitudinal variations of the race trail? That is the first thing they should have found out. They obviously did not.

They could have caused the country serious loss of face.

Queen of Bhutan Rose

How many of the Bhutanese subjects of Her Majesty The Gyaltsuen Jetsun Pema Wangchuck know that there is a rose created specifically for Her Majesty? I for one did not know – until a Rotarian from the UK sent me a photo of it yesterday night. The Rotarian tells me that he bought one and is currently growing the flower in his garden in Sandwich, Kent, UK. This is how he writes:

Yeshey,
I am sending you a photo of one of the roses in my English garden. 'The Queen of Bhutan'. It is almost as beautiful as the lady herself.

I am keeping abreast of events in Bhutan and congratulate you on your nation's outstanding control of the COVID-19 pandemic.

I am saddened that l am not packing my suitcase today in preparedness to come to Thimphu. However each month l am putting a little money aside for next year so l might add this to the conference money l have already paid and lengthen my stay in your Himalayan kingdom around the Rotary Conference 2021.

Yours in Rotary

The "Queen of Bhutan Rose" created in the UK

The rose was created by the famous rose breeder Philip Harkness of Hitchin, Hertfordshire, England. The special one-of-a-kind flower was presented to Her Majesty the Gyaltsuen by the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, during their visit to Bhutan in April of 2016.

A Club Member informs me that the flower was publicly displayed  for the first time on 2nd June, 2016 during the Royal Bhutan Flower Exhibition (RBFE), held in Paro.

UPDATE:
It transpires that there is another flower honoring Her Majesty - a tulip called Queen of Bhutan Tulip. It was a specially cultivated tulip from the people of Netherlands - to commemorate the Royal Wedding of His Majesty the King and Queen of Bhutan. The flower was released in September of 2012.

The Queen of Bhutan Tulip

Achievers Who Came Along In My Life: II

“Congratulations, Yeshey! It was all due to your guidance and service to TWS that resulted in the great success of Mr. Kaestner’s visit. I really believe that we achieve great things for our country in small steps like these - winning one heart at a time and you made a great contribution to this one!”

This is how an official of the Royal Government of Bhutan wrote to me - to thank me for my part in the success of Mr. Kaestner’s Bhutan visit, during October of 2009. The retired US diplomat Mr. Peter G. Kaestner was then posted at the US Embassy, New Delhi.

Among the world birding community, he is an achiever and a luminary. Mr. Peter G. Kaestner is acknowledged as one of the world’s TOP TEN BIRDERS.

Peter G Kaestner, one of world's top 10 birders at 8,666 life birds

The International Ornithologists’ Union places the total number of known bird species at 10,500. Ofcourse this number does not stay static - while some bird species regularly go extinct, new ones are constantly discovered. Of this many known species, as on last count (as per his mail to me dated 21st March, 2017) Mr. Peter G. Kaestner has recorded 8,666 life birds - a staggering more than 82% of the world’s entire bird species!

Bhutan is listed among the world’s top 10 birding destinations. And this is where Mr. Kaestner got two of his life birds: the extremely rare White-bellied Heron (Ardea insignis) - in Lekeythang, Punakha on 28th October, 2009, and the Fulvous Parrotbill (Suthora fulvifrons) - in Dochula, the next day.

Having guided Mr. Kaestner for two days, the following was my trip report to the government:

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Hi All,

I am happy to let you know that Mr. Peter Kaestner was fortunate enough to sight his life bird – White-bellied Heron on the evening of 28th October, 2009 - the same evening we travelled to Punakha. The original plan was that we would stop over at Dochula and look for his other life bird – Fulvous Parrotbill. However, I changed the plan and decided that we will leave that for the return trip – since the White-bellied Heron was more important for Peter than the Parrotbill.

Upon reaching Punakha past 4.30PM, we decided to go straight to look for the bird and leave the check-in into the hotel for later in the late evening. That was a good decision. Twenty minutes on the road to Puna Phochhu, the bird flew in and landed by the river bank at Lekeythang.

The most beautiful part of the close to half an hour of wonderful viewing of the bird was that Peter actually saw the bird take a huge fish – a Snow Trout (Yuel-Nya) and swallow it whole. The fish was so big that it got stuck in the slender neck of the bird and despite the bird trying to shake it down, it remained stuck there. I know that the fish will eventually die and then the bird will be able to shake it in – but we decided we had enough and left the bird in the middle of the small rush – still trying to shake the fish down.

Next day he sighted is other life bird - Fulvous Parrotbill, at Dochula.

Achievers Who Came Along In My Life

Life is a long, continuous journey, most often lived in long periods of confusion, followed by realization and finally ending in regret & repentance.

There are many who see merit in renouncing everything in life, so that they can pursue knowledge and wisdom. And yet, for all their troubles, they have not been able to rescue the world or the humanity, from the brink of disaster.

Then there are those who travel to distant pilgrimage sites - in pursuit of higher purposes and higher Gods, while the abodes of their resident Gods are in shambles and in need of urgent repair and renewal. This lot will spend millions to go to Dorjeden, Tshopema, Boudha, Varanasi etc. but will not cast a morsel for the nourishment of the poor and the hungry who line up the streets outside their fortified homes. For these passionate believers in God, charity begins at the feet of the ornately adorned Buddha and Guru statues. No wonder the Buddha is depicted with a curious smirk on his face. The man knows!

Others spend a lifetime amassing wealth and fortune. They cheat, they plunder, they lie through their teeth – they have no time for the sunset or to tickle a baby. They are so taken up making money and hoarding them in chests and bank lockers, that they fail to notice the look of contempt and abhorrence in the faces of their friends and neighbors. Too late they realize that they had become slaves of that one thing that they had all their lives tried to master - MONEY. They were too greedy to spend their wealth to give themselves pleasure - let alone for those of others. And now their time in this world is up and it is time for them to be gagged and bundled and put on the funeral pyre, to be turned to ashes. What a waste.

Then there are those of us who live life one day at a time. We do not hoard for tomorrow - because today is more certain than tomorrow. Our bank accounts may be nearing negative balance - but we have piles and piles of credit - of goodwill and appreciation, of gratefulness and gratitude - overflowing in the hearts of those to whom we gave freely and without condition.

Life is made up of moments and encounters. One remarkable encounter I had was with late Captain Charles E. Brady Jr., NASA astronaut who passed away on 23rd July, 2006.

Autographed photo of Space Shuttle Columbia Mission STS-78

 Captain Charles E. Brady Jr., NASA astronaut

He was a crew member on the Space Shuttle Columbia Mission STS-78 during June-July, 1996. That mission was the longest shuttle mission at that time. It lasted 16 days, 21 hours, 48 minutes and 30 seconds.

I hosted him during his Ham Radio trip to Bhutan. I was hugely impressed by him. Perhaps it was due to his time in the infinite space - or he was naturally so. He had a Buddha-like calm and serenity about him. It was so soothing to be around him - life suddenly became even paced and unrushed - as if it held no meaning.

60th Birth Anniversary Celebration Photos

It was notified that photography of the most public celebrations of the Birth Anniversary of His Majesty the Fourth Druk Gyalpo at the Changlemithang stadium on 11th November, 2015 was not allowed. I am clueless as to why a most public celebration should be out of bounds for photographers. However, it is not in my place to question - thus I did not go anywhere near the grounds. Instead I walked around town to take pictures of some really beautiful decorations that were put up to mark the occasion. I even went to Paro to check out the decorations there.

Come to think of it, may be the American visitor is right - we prefer to criminalize social disorders such as drug and alcohol abuse, juvenile delinquency etc.- instead of trying to remedy the causes that trigger them.

The following photos are posted for the benefit of Bhutanese people living outside the country. Ofcourse this is a sideshow - but this should give an idea of how charming the celebrations were - inside the celebration grounds.

 I love this one - I spent time to choose a particular time of day so that I can capture the shadows that add character to this uniquely crafted portrait of His Majesty the 4th Druk Gyalpo - at the VAST, Thimphu

Almost 300 ft. long - had a hard time framing this shot - at the RBA Campus, Shaba, Paro

Andy Murray : World's #3 Tennis Star

ATP ranks Andy Murray of Great Britain as World #3 Singles tennis player. I have to admit that the 25 years old Scotsman is not my favorite player - he is too bad tempered and foul mouthed for my liking. But the year 2012 has been good for him. His total earning as a professional tennis player stands at US$24,271,621.00.

For those of you in Bhutan who like him, I am posting his following photo which I shot in 2008 when I was hired by a sports daily to cover the Shanghai Masters.

His fans are welcome to download the photo - GRATIS!

Andy Murray at the Shanghai Masters, 2008

World Smile Day

Your smile is inexhaustible - so pass them around freely and as often as you can.
The happiest smile is the one you give to someone who has none to offer you.
You wont be taxed for smiling … so go ahead and smile with abundance! It lights up your face and makes you look pretty.

Wishing all my readers a VERY HAPPY WORLD SMILE DAY!

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It is amazing how I can remember the people in the following photos so vividly – even when some of them were taken 8-9 years back.

PHOTO #1:
I had gone to the Prime Minister’s zimchung to shoot his portrait for use during the SAARC Summit. After the portrait was done, Loenchen wanted me to photograph him and Aum Rinzi together. That took some doing! Even after having been married for over 30 years, Aum Rinzi is still very coy in the presence of her husband.

 PHOTO #2:
I photographed Lyonpo Ugyen Tshering about 5 years back at the Paro Tsechu grounds. It is obvious that he was thoroughly enjoying himself.

Among Bhutan’s most respected personalities, he served the country with utmost loyalty and dedication for the past four decades. Given his medical condition, I am afraid that he may not contest in the coming elections. That would be an irreplaceable loss for the country.

PHOTO #3:
I am told the ladies are Bhutanese movie actresses. I spotted them about 5 years back during the annual Paro Tsechu (festival).

PHOTO #4:
This novitiate monk posed for me shyly from behind a Lhadar (large/tall prayer flag) post. It was taken 5 years back at Dechenphodrang Monastery, Thimphu.

PHOTO #5:
This oldman was photographed at Thangbi Mani in Jakar, Bumthang. What attracted my attention was his immensely strong, bull-like build. He looked very lean and yet stout and muscular. Very healthy old man indeed.

PHOTO #6:
This little girl is from Laya village. She was photographed at Punakha during the annual Dromchoe. At that time she was only 6 years old. Seven years later, I met her once again in her village in Laya when I had gone there for a trek. But this time I did not photograph her.

PHOTO #7 & 8:
These two children were photographed at the Chorten Kora in Trashiyangtse.

PHOTO #9:
The lady in the photo was seen crushing stones by the roadside above Doksum on the way to Trashiyangtse. The radiance of her smile tells me that happiness is a state of mind and not a condition determined by one’s affluence.

PHOTO #10:
These giggling bunch of little girls were photographed in Zhemgang about 7 years back.

PHOTO #11:
I photographed this young student in Dungkar, Kurtoe in Lhuntse Dzongkhang. He was eating his lunch, a bowl of pre-packaged noodles. When I trained my camera on him, he promptly turned the plastic bowl upside-down on his head and gave me a beaming smile.

PHOTO #12:
This smiling little girl was photographed in Punakha. She had a younger brother who was even more cute … but was so grouchy, I excluded him from the photo.

PHOTO #13:
This is the only RAPA girl I have ever photographed in my many years’ career as a photographer. This photo must be about 8 years old. The girl had just joined the RAPA and thus her eyebrows, her hair style, her lips, her face .. they were all still intact. I am told that she left the profession after about a year or two.

PHOTO #14:
I am told that this lady is from Chapcha and last I heard, she is supposed to be in the US of A. I photographed her in Paro Tsechu – under the staircase of the VIP cottage at the celebration grounds of Paro Tsechu.

PHOTO #15:
This photo of Aum Karma and Aum Damchoe Lhamo was photographed at Langjopakha about 6 years back. They are great friends which is obvious from their body language.

Aum Karma in the front is the daughter of the famous late Chapda and Aum Damchoe in the back is the wife of Draksho Tsering Wangda, Bhutan's Council General in Kolkatta, Inida.

PHOTO #16:
This is Ms Kencho Dorji – a tour operator. When she saw this photo posted on this Blog, she sent me a SMS saying: “How come I do not know of this photograph? LOL”.

PHOTO #17:
This portrait of a mute was photographed inside the Changangkha Lhakhang few years back. As I asked him to pose for me, his friend began to make a series of faces to mock and amuse the mute. The mute loved it so much that he burst out laughing. What a laugh! I am convinced that he who laughs the loudest loughs the truest.

PHOTO #18:
I photographed this silver haired beautiful old lady somewhere close to Kelikhar in Wangduephodrang. As I was driving down from Nobding, I saw this serene old lady sitting on the doorsteps of her home by the roadside. She held a rosary in her right hand.

Few weeks after I took the photo, it was reported in the papers that her own relatives, in a bid to rob her of her cash, battered her to death.

PHOTO #19:
A shy school girl in Dungkar, Kurtoe, Lhuntse Dzongkhang. She wanted to be photographed and yet you can see that she is very shy about the experience.

PHOTO #20:
This photo of two little girls thoroughly enjoying themselves was shot at the RAPA grounds. I think they were students from either Druk Private School or Little Dragon Private School. It was during their annual concert that was being held at the RAPA Hall.

PHOTO #21:

This photograph of a young mother and her two small daughters was shot at the Memorial Chorten a few years back. The mother looked on with joy and satisfaction while her little girls bantered around the open lawn. But for some reason, I got the impression that everything was not quite right. There was an air of melancholy about her that she couldn’t quite suppress. I hope life has been treating her well since.

Death of an Iconic Photographer

-->Prabuddha Dasgupta was one of India’s most celebrated fashion photographers. He died of a heart attack on 12^th of this month, on his way to the airport after a photo shoot near Mumbai. He would have been only 56 years old next month.

I never met the great photographer but I was due to play host to his maiden visit to Bhutan sometime this year. I was informed of the planned visit by his wife, Tania Dasgupta – a much sought after book designer based in Delhi. She designed my book “Bhutan Birds”.

I have been robbed of a lifetime opportunity to meet a photographer of immense talent. And, Bhutan missed the opportunity of being photographed by an unconventional visualizer.

The Ministry of Culture, Government of India is hosting a Memorial Meeting in honor of the great photographer on August 25^th 2012. I will not be able to attend it but I take this opportunity to offer my condolences to his wife and two daughters.