Un-confusing the Confusion

After more than fifteen years of obstinate probing into the bewildering journey of Bhutan’s coinage, I am finally beginning to see merit in my unbending nature in not docilely accepting half-truths and uncontested theories of probabilities - in the construct of the history of our coinage, and everything else. Too often I have been dismayed by the inaccuracies in the historical accounts put forward by those whom we considered knowledgeable and wise - time and again it has been my experience that our historians and academicians have proven to be not so learned in their dissertations. Thus, over the years, I have become wary about accepting any historical facts - whether written or oral - as dependable truth - unless I validate them with my own research and cross verification. It is for this reason that the publication of my coin book has been hanging fire for more than fifteen years - because I want to ensure that when I finally do publish my book - that it is a book that may not be absolutely flawless in its accuracy - but a work that contains the least bit of inaccuracies.

Consider the case of our following first machine-struck silver Thala, issued by His Majesty the 2nd Druk Gyalpo:

Bhutan's earliest modern machine-struck silver Thala

The Year on the reverse of the coin reads:

Sa Druk Lo

When translated to Gregorian Calendar, the Year translates to:

1928

So, lots of historians around the world began to assume, and record, the coin as having been minted in 1928. Then one day, my relentless research led me to the following record released by the Director of The Mint, USA, that included a report on the production of precious metals by Calcutta Mint during the Calendar Year 1929:

The above record clearly states that coins worth Rs. 10,000.00 – or 20,000 pcs. of silver Thalas - were minted by the Calcutta Mint, in the year 1929!

I was puzzled! 1929? But the coin is clearly dated Sa Druk Lo on its reverse – meaning 1928. So which is right – and what is correct? I went into deep delve – I read records from USA, England, Denmark, Germany, India and Bhutan. None could give me the correct answer – but I persisted. Then I hit on the truth!

The basic concept for the coin’s design was supplied by Bhutan in the year Sa Druk Lo - 1928. In Calcutta Mint where the coin was minted, the coin’s die was engraved by the famous English master engraver Mr. A P Spencer. It is said that his work of the design and engraving of the silver Thala’s die was considered his life’s finest.

Now, engraving a coin’s die is not an easy task – it is tedious, long-drawn and time consuming. Thus, it is my belief that although the designing of the coin was conceived and released to the Mint in 1928 and accordingly dated, it is obvious that it was not before a year that the coins could finally be minted - resulting in the minting date of the coins being recorded as 1929 - in the Document No. 3025 of the Treasury Department, Director of the Mint, Washington DC, USA.

Thus, we will have to accept that our earliest silver Thala was minted in 1929, and not 1928. Even then we are still not sure when it was actually released for circulation.

The perplexity of this particular coin, and the second issue of the same coin minted a year later in 1930, does not end here - there is even more intriguing matter that surrounds the coins - but the details are too lengthy for inclusion here - that will be dealt with in great detail in my book, when it is finally released 😋

Saying Thank You Isn’t Easy

I am currently engrossed in an endeavor to launch a crowd funding initiative in Japan – to raise funds to acquire a small ambulance for donation to a struggling NGO in the health sector. While everything is being readied by a generous friend in Japan, my responsibility at this end is to craft a suitably worded THANK YOU note – to be presented to individual donors for their generosity.

Thank You Note printed on Desho paper for presentation to donors

Mindful that people are going to be donating hundreds of thousands of Ngugies destined for a cause in a country most do not even know where it is located, I am trying to make the Thank You note a worthy one. The only way I can think of doing so is by printing the note on our elegant Desho – traditional handmade Bhutanese paper - made from the bark of wild Daphne trees. I mean, gold-rimmed, diamond-studded Thank You notes are beyond my means.

But boy!!! I did not realize how difficult the endeavor would prove to be – of translating the idea into a presentable product!

The entire gamut of desktop publishing services in town declined to print my Thank You note! Their reason: the rough surface of the Desho would damage the print heads of their InkJet printers. What a ridiculous reason!!! This shows how uneducated the service providers are about their profession and what they do.

For the life of me, I could not convince them that they are wrong – that the InkJet printers are, what are called, None-Impact Printers. This means that the printers print without the need for contact between the print head and the paper surface on which the images are printed. In fact, the InkJet printers DO NOT HAVE print heads – they use a series of fine nozzles to spray microscopic droplets of ink onto the paper to form the images – THE NOZZLES DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE PAPER AT ALL!!!

No Go!

So, in frustration, I ended up buying a brand new Epson InkJet printer to do the job – what a drag!

Para-Gliding? Hang-Gliding? Or Cable Car?

Surprises never cease in this county … I mean Bhutan looking to invite Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) for starting gliding in the country? PREPOSTEROUS! Pray, tell me, what is so complicated about gliding? It is not a high technology venture ----- neither does it require investment at a level that cannot be handled by the Bhutanese. While it is not clear what gliding they are talking about – Para-Gliding or Hang-Gliding – regardless, I happen to know that we have few hundred Bhutanese who can handle this level of investment with ease.

Let it be known that notice has been served!

Best of economies around the world welcome FDI – for the value they bring to the country – by way of finance, employment, as well as advanced technology and skills. Not to be outdone, Bhutan has endeavored to attract FDI for the past many decades. And we did attract some – sadly our experience with almost every one of our FDI partners has been that the country has come off the loser. Most of them have been shameless in abusing our sense of welcome. They broke every law in the book – and we watched helplessly, as though they were doing us a great favor.

But I am encouraged that our moment of awakening may be here!

During the get-to-know trip to the Ge-Sar on 4th January, 2024, one of the points made by His Majesty the King was that there was no shortage of investors for the Ge-Sar. But what about Bhutan? Just because investors are there for the picking, do we surrender our soul for a bagful of cash? No!!! Thus, we were told that the best of legal brains around the world were being engaged – to work out the most ideal terms of engagement that is beneficial for all.

Same goes with the FDI investment – we have to be lot more careful than we have been so far. Above all, we need to make sure that economic opportunities that are within the scope and capability of the Bhutanese, and in areas where investment level is within the capability of the locals, are reserved for the nationals.

Talking of which why is gliding the investment of choice - for attracting tourists? What about scenic Ropeway Cable Cars?

Scenic Cable Car ropeway to Phajoding top. Feast your eyes on the jaw-dropping view as you glide past the Phajoding Goemba.

For years I have been promoting the idea that someone should invest in setting up a cable car ropeway system to the ridge above Phajoding ….. construct two dozen plus tourist class cottages for the visiting tourists. The cable car ride that will glide past the lush green hillside of Thimphu will be breathtaking. It is bound to be a hit amongst Thimphups as well. We are always on the lookout for a gate-away that is not too far removed from Thimphu, and yet distanced enough from the clatter and clang of the noisy metropolis – calm, still, secluded, and supremely exclusive!

As a tourism product – cable car ropeway will beat the gliding proposal – HANDS DOWN!

The Gift

Imagine the joy of the news that I am due to receive an unexpected gift of unparalleled meaning and value – I was delighted and absolutely WOWed! Surely, with this, I would have had to have hit my life’s High Note!

Then, one day, unseen and shielded from envious eyes, the gift arrived – meticulously draped inside a bundle of shimmering red silk, containing the following:

The Gift: Canon EOS R5 Mirrorless Camera body with all the essential paraphernalia that will enable me to couple my older generation EF lenses to the latest RF lens mount on the R5 camera body. The camera projects a delicate and slender look - but the beauty comes with a whooping  45 MPEG full frame sensor encased inside a body crafted from magnesium alloy and poly carbonate with glass fiber!

There are no words that can accurately describe the joy and honor I feel – suffice it to say that I am well and truly speechless!

But this uncommon angle visit finally makes me decide on something that I have been dithering for the past one year. I can now resolve to do it, with my eyes firmly shut. It is only just - and fair, that I should share my good fortune with those who are less fortunate.

During my visit to Trashi Yangtse last year to administer a grant to support the education of three little girls, I met a school teacher who had started a bird watching club in his school. I donated a number of Field Guide Books of the wild birds of Bhutan – a handbook authored by me. But I wanted to do more, for a cause that is after my own heart. Now I need no further encouragement - the above gift encourages me not to delay the act of giving any longer. So, during my upcoming visit to the areas, I am giving away the following complete assemblage of camera gear suitable for bird photography - for the use of the school’s Bird-Watching Club at the Trashi Yangtse Primary School:

Sharing my good fortune: My gift of a complete set of camera body and lenses suitable for bird photography at a mid-pro level.

In the olden days, a joke used to be told that the only person in Iceland who knew how to make Ice Cream died without passing on the recipe to any one - resulting in a situation where no Ice Cream could be had in Iceland for many generations. It is my hope that we can prevent such a thing from coming to pass in Bhutan – I would like to encourage some kids in Trashi Yangtse to perpetuate the joy of bird photography many generations into the future – an act of conservation that may be the only means by which we can ensure that some of the bird species that are bound to go extinct, are recorded and conserved/preserved in digital format, for the benefit of future generations of Bhutanese.

Tourism Levy Act of Bhutan 2022: Need for Rethink

I just returned from an overnight trip to Punakha where I was invited to be a Guest Speaker at the on-going Cultural Tour Guide NC II Level Training at the De-suung Skilling Program (DSP) Training Center at Phadula. Of the 30 PowerPoint Slides I presented during the speak that went on for the whole day, the following was one of the slides:

The other slide was the following – to prove what some countries around the world do - in an attempt to woo back the tourists. By contrast, Bhutan chose to triple the SDF to US$200.00 per person per day – from the earlier US$65.00.

Thankfully the SDF has since been reduced to US$100.00 but there are other damaging provisions in the Tourism Levy Bill of Bhutan 2022 that needs to be removed without further delay. If that is not done proto, the government will find that it had not only shot itself in the foot – but its belly as well. Even more dangerous, there is the possibility that we may never be able to make amends, as we wish - should we delay action any further.

All that it will take is half a day of discussion among genuinely qualified people who know better – so that the sticks in the mud are ejected and we can look forward to an era of bountiful tourism business.

Also, we need to rein in the Lucifer - DrukAir - who is strangulating the industry with its atrocious airfare. It is not only losing business for itself; it is driving away potential tourists to the country.

Welcome to PDP Government

The new government is now firmly on the seat of governance – we have to accept that there is no altering the fact. They may not be the government of your choice – that is not important. What is true is that they are now the men about town and all of us must respect that, and give support as best as we can.

The winning Horse

I am not so naïve as to believe that they will fulfill even 10% of their campaign promises. If they fail, it will be because you have been unrealistic in your expectations. But I am convinced that they will try their best ----- and that is all that I can expect from them – give their very best.

But I do wish that they would take on a number of initiatives on a priority basis. I talk of things that are doable - and necessary - nothing that will require billions of Ngultrums, or years of planning. I hope that they work on the following two:

1.  Reworking the Tourism policy

2.  Rationalizing the airfares of the Druk Air

The new Prime Minister’s first day in office does set out some useful priorities ---- and among them he mentions tourism. But he makes the same mistake the past government did – he is trusting that the Bhutanese embassies abroad will do the job.

I hope he will soon realize that there is more than enough in-country competence to do the job better than any paid clueless consultants or embassy staff.

Through this post, I would like to appraise the Prime Minister that the Bhutan Sustainable Tourism Society (BSTS) had already offered to help out the government should they need help. The help was offered through the now disbanded (although officially un-notified) Tourism Council Board and also to the Finance and Economic Committee of the DNT government during a meeting with the Committee in which some of the Members of the BSTS was present.

I dare say, on behalf of the BSTS, that the offer still stands – we will be happy to sort out the mess – GRATIS!

Promoting Bhutan as a MICE Destination

Things do finally happen in Bhutan – but why does it take years for the Bhutanese Dashos to be “on the ball”? I have been shouting for years that Bhutan should tap into the MICE market – we have the ideal conditions to appeal to corporate honchos around the world… charming places like Paro, Haa, Phobjikha, Bumthang and now the Mindfulness City of Ge-SAR - are all potential destinations of appeal.

Beginning from 2018, I have been writing that we should gear up as a MICE destination:

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2022/07/bhutan-destination-for-mice-tourism.html

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2022/10/spiting-hand-that-rocks-cradle.html#comment-form

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2023/05/tap-into-indian-tourism-market.html

https://yesheydorji.blogspot.com/2018/03/rotary-international-district-3292-pet.html

Finally, this morning I see a mail from the mighty Department of Tourism (DoT) that they are allowing SDF waiver for MICE event participants. I would like to offer them CONGRATULATIONS on this very welcome announcement.

The DoT has finally woken up

However, I would like to suggest that the rules should provide for SDF waiver for the participants’ spouse and one child. After all we have to remember that MICE events are corporate sponsored events and the officials attending the events would want to take advantage of the corporate sponsorship and bring along their spouses and children to experience a new country and culture.

With the right amount of broadening of their minds, the DoT cannot fail to see the benefit in doing so. As I said often, the indirect benefits are more substantive than the direct ones.

Also, something that the DoT needs to clarify is that the MICE participants are allowed to overstay beyond the MICE designated period of 4 nights – but with full SDF payment, for the additional days beyond the MICE period.

Few months back a friend sought my advice – whether he should continue and complete the construction of his tourism class hotel, or reconfigure it to serve as something else. I told him that he definitely should stay the course --- because I told him that NOTHING but NOTHING, can prevent tourism from happening in Bhutan. Ofcourse – other than the lousy government’s tourism policy ….. and the exorbitant fare of the near monopoly Druk Air - the national flag carrier of Bhutan!

For example, the Rotary International is a mammoth global humanitarian organization that has over 46,000 clubs spread over 200 countries across the globe. Its global membership is in excess of 1.4 million individuals. The Rotary Club of Thimphu has already organized 2 international Rotary conferences – another one is scheduled to be organized soon.

2018: Conference of the Rotary International District 3292

2017: A throng of Rotarians from around the glob: 7 RI Districts, 38 Clubs and 108 Rotarians

In addition to being the world’s most populous countries, India and China are two countries that are in close proximity to Bhutan – they are provably the world’s second and third largest economies with thousands of corporate giants seeking new venues to host their Annual General Meetings.

In November of 2022, India’s Travel + Leisure sector awarded Bhutan “Editor’s Choice Award in the ‘Best Emerging Destination’ (international)”.

Last December, Bhutan was awarded the "Outstanding Destination Excellence Award" in the Chinese travel market.

With all that under our belt, what is preventing Bhutan from grabbing a slice of the pie?

Gelephu Mindfulness City Project - I

The Mindfulness City within the Gelephu Special Administrative Region (Ge-SAR) is being planned over a continuous expanse of flat land stretching over a thousand square kilometers. That is a whooping 2.60% of the country’s total land surface area!

On a trip to the Phulari Vantage Point (above Bhutan’s largest water project located in Samtenling Gewog of Sarpang Dzongkhag) conducted by His Majesty the King on the afternoon of 4th January, 2024 – we were treated to the visual vastness of the project area – said to extend from Kanamakura in Gelephu to Lhamoizingkha, in Dagana.

Visual grasp of the full expanse of the SAR’s geographical area was impossible. So, I attempted to imagine it in my mind’s eye – absolutely not possible either. That is when something else hit me with a bang! – that a space so wide and flat and uninterrupted by deep ravines and canyons would offer possibilities that is impossible in a geography littered with craggy hills and mountains and plunging chasms of precipices that make up the geography of the rest of His Kingdom.

Quite obviously His Majesty the King recognized the boundless potential in a geography that I realized is incomparable to anything else anywhere in the country. It is clear then that His Majesty’s choice of location is spot on: abundant land, no hills and mountains to level, easier connectivity and access to international markets, possibility for rapid infrastructure build-up when the need arises, geographical flexibility to be able to adapt to changing situations and realities, proximity to the vast Indian market that is only a few hundred feet away from the border and, above all, the promise of the upcoming transportation projects for mass movement of bulk cargo - both human and merchandize!

Given the enormity of the perception I realize that it is not possible to conceive the entire project in its entirety at one go – it has to be a work in constant progress with the elasticity to change and adapt. I think it is for this reason that even after being fortunate enough to be comprehensively briefed four times by His Majesty personally, I dare not claim that I have understood even 5% of the vision – it is just too complex and the scale too enormous!

On the early morning of 6th January when I was preparing to depart for Phibsoo scheduled for 7.30AM, a writer friend from South Asia who had heard of Bhutan’s Mindfulness City Project asked me if I was convinced. I told him that that was unimportant – that the architect of the vision appears to be wholly and completely convinced!

Bhutan is fortunate that this is happening at this present juncture – we have the potential – we have the benefit of a youthful monarch who has the guts and the courage to take on a responsibility that He knows is needed at this point in our history. We have to understand that few years from now His Majesty will begin to slide into a state of waning courage and diminishing nerve.

We do not want His Majesty to grow into a wizened old man sitting in a corner and thinking: Oh God, youth wasted in the young. We need to encourage His Majesty to take this on full throttle - NOW! - before wisdom begins to tamper His youthful courage and energy!

Our Energy Potential To Power Our Growth

Writing for the Business Insider, Polly Thompson, on 25th November, 2023 made a startling revelation that Bhutan, a longtime exporter of hydropower to India, imported US$20.7 million worth of electricity during the year 2023.

Amazing numbers! But if it is true, we have to begin to wonder: what can we attribute this reversal of fortune to? A quantum jump in domestic consumption? That is good news! It means, Bhutan need no longer be dependent on the export market for our energy production potential: our in-country demand and consumption can finally deliver us from the cruel clutches of the single-basket market vagary.

Such a shift in scenario opens up a whole lot of possibilities for Bhutan – for one, project financing. I believe that access to finance will now be lot easier than in the past.

Bhutan's Hydro Committee in 2018 recommended that Amocu and Chamkharchu basins remain hydropower free for all times to come. Accordingly, the withdrawal of the Amochu and Chamkharchu Hydropower Projects was announced by the Royal Government of Bhutan during the National Assembly Session in May, 2019. Regardless, we have many other potential projects in the pipeline.

For years some have unjustly accused me of being anti-hydropower although I have gone hoarse shouting that I am NOT against hydropower – but in the MANNER IN WHICH IT IS CURRENTLY DONE IN BHUTAN. Hopefully, now we can look forward to doing things the right way: speedily, with the right intentions, minimal corruption, purposeful and appropriate management team, competent design and engineering, environmentally less destructive, and site selection that will not encounter the now famous “geological surprises” in the middle of project implementation.

His Majesty the King was categorical during His 116th National Day speech that in the scheme of things, we must not fail to harness our abundant potential in wind, solar and hydro - to produce energy to power our growth. I agree!

So, let us put the show on the road – let us begin with the Bunakha Reservoir Project to start with – I am talking of just the reservoir – sans the HE component for the moment. It will be the fastest, cheapest and technically less daunting! It will nicely complement the planned Gelephu initiative.

A Super-Natural Story

Miracles, like the proverbial Angle’s visit, do seem to occur. As incredible as they seem, I know of some stray incidences that can only be explained as “miraculous”. Not that this should serve as an encouragement – but the following is proof that there are things in nature that can only be called super-normal – the other name for miracle.

Past President of the Rotary Club of Honolulu Sunset of Hawaii, USA - PP Dr. James Ham and his wife were married for many years. For years they were childless.

Then, in November of 2018, the couple visited Bhutan. During the visit, someone suggested that the couple visit Chimmi Lhakhang known as the Temple of Fertility. They did, and quite extraordinarily, the wife was pregnant on the first moth of the visit to the temple.

Exactly nine months later, at 6:54AM on 10th August, 2019 a healthy son weighing 5 pounds 13 ounces, 20 inches was born to the couple.

They named their son Kinley Jin Ham. The following is how he looked at birth:

The mini Drukpa Kinley in Honolulu, Hawaii, USA

Over the years, although I am no longer a member of the Rotary Club of Thimphu – not even of the venerable Rotary institution - I kept in touch with the good doctor. On 14th December, 2023, Dr. James sent me the following photograph of his growing up son - Kinley Jin Ham, who is now a hulking 4 years, 4 months old!

Kinley Jin Ham - all of 4 years and 4 months as of this month

I encouraged the good doctor to bring his son to Bhutan for a visit to Chimmi Lhakhang – so that the boy may receive blessings from Drukpa Kinley’s relic at the temple.

CONTEXT: In my capacity as the Club Secretary of Rotary Club of Thimphu, I met Dr. James when he attended our Club Meeting at the Druk Hotel in 2018. Our association developed over the next years that resulted in a Global Grant Project that saw the implementation of a  training program for the trainers at KGUMSB and some select trekking guides - in wilderness emergency evacuation and treatment. Dr. James was the driving force behind the project.

National Day of Bhutan

On 17th of December, 1907, entire population of Bhutan represented by 47 of their representatives congregated in Pungthang Dechen Phodrang Dzong to install Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary Monarch of Bhutan. The day marked the start of the Wangchuck Dynasty under whose successive rulers Bhutan saw a period of peace, tranquility and progress.

His Majesty Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck the Ist King of Bhutan

According to available information, Bhutan celebrated our National Day for the first time on 17th December, 1971. Today the 17th of December, 2023 we will be celebrating our 116th National Day.

One hundred and sixteen years ago, the peoples’ representatives, including the regional rulers and administrators, and the monk body, affixed their respective seals to the following Declaration of Allegiance - installing Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck as the first hereditary King of Bhutan:

The "Gyenja" executed on 17th December, 1907 at Pungthang Dechen Phodrang Dzong

Those of you who can read the "Gyenja" will notice something intriguing: Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck has been named as "Sir Ugyen Wangchuck". Even the date of the "Gyenja" has been recorded in the Gregorian calendar. I wonder if that was done due to the presence of his good friend J C White? Regardless, one Bhutanese scholar tells me that the language of the "Gyenja" is truly outstanding - far superior to anything he has seen so far.

The signatories to the document, including the foreign dignitaries, were recorded as follows:

1. Seal of The Monk Body         Je and the Lopoens

2. Seal of Choetse Poenlop         Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck

3. Seal of Zhoong Droenyer         Tshewang Penjor

4. Seal of Thimphu Dzongpoen Kuenzang Thinley

5. Seal of Punakha Dzongpoen Palden Wangchuk

6. Seal of Wangdue Dzongpoen Kuenzang Norbu

7. Seal of Rinpoong Chila         Dawa Penjor

8. Seal of Daga Chila                 Tshewang Dorje

9. Seal of Gongzim                         Kuenzang Tshering

CLASS II OFFICIALS

10. Seal of Zhoong Droensop         Shar Tshering

11. Seal of Tapoen                         Rigzin Dorje

12. Seal of Zimpoen Nam                 Namgyal

13. Seal of Japoen                         Samdrup

14. Seal of Punakha Zimpoen         Kuenleg

15. Seal of Punakha Ngyerpa         Sangye Thinley

16. Seal of Gasa Dzongpoen         Dargo Ngoedrup

17. Seal of Thimphu Zimpoen         Sithup

18. Seal of Thimphu Ngyerpa         Phurpa Tashi

19. Seal of Lingzhi Nyerpa         Taya Gup

20. Seal of Wangdue Zimpoen         Tshewang Doendrup

21. Seal of Wangdue Nyerpa         Garpon

22. Seal of Paro Droenyer         Pelzang

23. Seal of Paro Nyerpa                 Yeshe

24. Seal of Paro Zimpoen                 Sigyel 

25. Seal of Drugyal Dzongpoen Samten Yoezer

26. Seal of Haa Droongpa         Ugyen

27. Seal of Daga Zimpoen         Dorje

28. Seal of Daga Nyerchen         Wangpo

29. Seal of Trongsa Zimpoen         Dorje

30. Seal of Jakar Dzongpoen         Chime Dorje

31. Seal of Zhongar Dzongpoen Dorje Penjor

32. Seal of Trashigang Dzongpoen Sonam Tshering

33. Seal of Lhuentse Dzongpoen Thinley Gyamtsho

34. Seal of Zhemgang Dzongpoen Karma

CLASS III OFFICIALS

35. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Punakha Dzong

36. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Tashichho Dzong

37. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Wangdue Dzong

38. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Trongsa Dzong

39. Seal of all Class III Officers of   Paro Dzong

40. Seal of all subjects of                 Wang Tshochen Gyed

41. Seal of all subjects of                 Thed Dargyed Chusoom

42. Seal of all subjects of                 Sha Dar Gyed

43. Seal of all subjects of                 Barkor Tsho Druk

44. Seal of all subjects of                 Gyue Zhi of Haa

45. Seal of all subjects of                 Tsentog Ling Druk

46. Seal of all subjects of                 Sharchog Kholo Sip Gyae

47. Seal of all subjects of                 Three Lings of Daga

It is not clear if they were official guests of the British Empire - but it is recorded that the following were present during the occasion:

i. John Claude White CIE, British Political Officer based in Sikkim

ii. Major Renik

iii. Mr. Campbell

iv. Captain Hyslop

v. Zarwala Suvidar Jihaden Khanna

vi. Rai Bahadur Lobzang Choeden

From all indications, the 116th National Day Celebrations will be an event unlike any before it. Even better, His Majesty the King is rumored to be announcing some major economic initiatives – such as the much-anticipated final plans of the Gelephu Administrative Region. Thus, I am honored to be able to attend it - from within the Changlemithang celebration grounds.

The Invitation Card to the 116th National Day Celebrations. Whoever was responsible for the design and printing of the Card – he/she has done a great job - it is such a pleasure to see someone do such an exquisite job: the choice of paper, its size, its texture, weight and the choice of font is simply superlative!

Copping Out COP28

Over three hundred years back, the English astronomer, mathematician and physicist Edmond Halley implied that for the environment to survive, the human race has to go extinct. Amazing that such a thought had already occurred some three centuries back. One has to wonder - what may have been happening those early days that someone foretold - quite accurately - the state of our environment, many centuries later?

In June of 1992, a total of 154 countries got together to sign the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC). Thirty-one (31) years later, and after deliberating for twenty-eight (28) years of COP after COP (Conference of the Parties), our environment is in greater peril than when the UNFCCC was initiated.

Twenty-eight years of yacking in great pomp and pageantry has not resulted in any improvement to the health of our environment. Apparently, the human society is running out of ideas – we are now forced to hold the 28th COP in a country that contributes to the top ten polluters of the world.

As I told one American friend – the way of the GNH could save the environment – but its very idea is antithesis to the basis of human development as we understand it. I told her that unless the present human society is willing to dismantle everything on which the supposed human progress is founded, NO WAY we can halt the march of environmental devastation.

Because, the human society has gotten used to exacting the cost of our competitiveness and efficiency on the environment. That would explain why the chilies grown at the other end of the world can be sold cheaper in your local Sunday Market, than that which is grown in your backyard. No one will stop to ponder: how is it possible that chilies trucked and moved tens of thousands of miles across the seven seas can be cheaper? The answer: abuse of the environment.

The processes we have developed to manufacture, transport, distribute and package our manufactured goods is such that it disregards the environment completely. We have gone so far that it is not an option to dismantle it – for the sake of the environment – it is a scary thought!

Consider, for instance, the European manufacturing conglomerate - Airbus SE, a company that holds almost 50% of the global civil aviation market. Its success is not because it manufactures all of their over a million parts that go into a single aircraft – its success is attributed to building partnerships among a number of countries such as France, Germany, United Kingdom, Italy, Spain and the Netherlands, UA, Canada, China. They build competitive edge over their competitors – by allocation manufacturing and assembly to different countries in different geographical locations, based on their core competences. This way, they distribute the burden of investment, tap into talents and skills based in a number of locations, instead of in one country and one location. This way they achieve economies of scale – cost savings, efficient distribution, cheaper cost of storage, ease of transportation to markets and consumers etc.

Same is with the Apple iPhone – they are built, assembled and shipped from multiple locations spread across multiple counties around the world, such as: China, the Czech Republic, Malaysia, Thailand, and South Korea among others.

Similarly, the car we drive may carry the brand name of one company such as TOYOTA – but over a hundred manufacturing companies spread across the globe would have contributed to the final product.

This means that the principal manufacturing company and the hundreds of ancillary companies based in over a dozen countries must function in synch with each other – they must use the same technologies – follow the same objectives and, above all, must be tuned into each other – the moment one part of the whole collapses, the entire chain gets broken. No single company in the world has the wherewithal to bear loss at this scale! Thus no one will dare shift to something new that calls for investment from ground up.

This means that the principal of GNH manufacturing – as charming as it may sound – is impractical as well as impracticable – it will be too costly to make it work.

Can you imagine the chaos it will create – the day you decide to shift over to a new order of things? It will fast-forward the collapse of the human race!

A simple thought: Can you imagine the catastrophe that will befall the automotive industry if they have to change over to electricity as the source of energy to power their engines? Can you imagine how many million companies will go bankrupt? How many millions of workers will be rendered jobless? How many fossil fuel producers (don’t forget they are also members of the human society) will go out of business?

A Fitting Ode To The Fallen Soldiers Of Destiny

Most are wont to tell us that winning and losing is a way of life. Alas! for those who are given to entering a battle with the sole intention to win, being flippant about losing cannot offer any solace. After all I do not believe that losing was in the scheme of things. Thus, I can understand the pain of the finality of loss when it comes staring you in the face.

Each of us have our own choices and preferences – we do not need to explain to anyone why we make those choices – it is a strictly personal matter. No one has the right to tell us that our choices and preferences are wrong – we have our own set of reasons, and values, that we believe are good for us. And yet, after all the bravado – losing is still a painful experience, and those of us who understand the emotion, we empathize with those who lost. And, it appears that some of us do have the guts to express our solidarity with the fallen heroes - even if we do fall far short of openly supporting them in their moment of grief. The following editorial by Business Bhutan dated 2nd December, 2023 is a case in point:

I whole-heartedly second the editorial!

When the Bhutanese people finally settle down from their frenzy of misplaced sense of patriotism and misguided show of camaraderie, and when they have the time to sift through the list of DNT’s achievements – provided they do so with a lens that is not tainted with greed or self-interest, a picture will emerge where the DNT government under the leadership of Dr. Lotay Tshering will stand tall – as a most courageous government who had the gallantry to rise above politics. They were a government that was most severely tested – they were struck with all sorts of calamities - both natural and man-made. From where I stand, in less than two and half years’ time in which they had to make their mark, their performance was nothing short of praiseworthy!

If they lacked the resource competence to implement lofty, star-spangled programs, they made up for it by being able to courageously dismantle many evils that had permeated into our system of governance. I have said this many a times before – greatness is not necessarily about doing – it is also, often times, about undoing!

I am not serenading the DNT government – but sending them off with a song of praise worthy of the valiant warriors who fought a winning battle for the country and the people of Bhutan – at a time when mightier nations buckled under the burden of an invisible, stealthy ravager. No doubt, they had a most competent Commander to guide them in their many battles during the COVID-19 pandemic. But what is undeniable is that the DNT as a team was comprised of the most competent and qualified foot soldiers who did not fail their Commander-In-Chief - in every one of His directives. The world record Bhutan set during the COVID-19 pandemic was possible because the DNT cohort served the King and the people with unflinching dedication and wholehearted commitment, without question or doubt, or skepticism. For that alone – the DNT government was a praise-worthy government deserving of our gratitude. The point that whether any other government would have excelled, as they did - given the challenges - will have to remain mute at this point in time.

But at the end, Dr. Lotay and his DNT team are nothing more than instruments of destiny through whom the will of Providence was conveyed and executed. As destined, they played out their role to the hilt. Importantly, they lived out their usefulness to society - their deed is done. And, in keeping with the ways of the world, it is now time to consign them to history and obscurity.

Seemingly they walk away - spent and wasted - with unsure gait and stooped posture. But not even God can deprive them of their just reward – the reward that in the hearts and minds of the wise and the knowledgeable, the truth of their service will remain forever etched. The trackless sands of time may not hold their footprints – but that wasn’t their purpose anyway.

Come 9th of January, 2024 Providence will once again guide our fingers to elect yet another equally competent bunch of foot soldiers to uphold, preserve and perpetuate the good work left behind by the DNT. I pray that if nothing, they have the fortitude to safeguard - even shield - the many edifices of courage and selflessness that has been the hallmark of the DNT government headed by Dr. Lotay Tshering.

If that happens, it will be my honor to once again burn the midnight oil - to yet again compose another eulogy at the end of five years from now.

A Goat In Place Of A Sheep

The proverbial storm in the tea cup is yet again brewing with the customary zeal – the spirited ado about nothing!

Bhutan’s fourth elections is days away and the nation is abuzz with a million inconsequential questions: Who do you think is going to win? Are you voting? Who are you going to vote for this time? Do you think Dr. Lotay is likely to come back? So forth and so on ……

The five political parties and their promises

Most offer the view that the PDP will most likely emerge as the winning horse. Their logic: people believe that the vote bank of their traditional rival – the DPT – would have been halved and quartered by the two new political parties entering the fray. However, they say that PDP had better pray hard that the DPT does not end up in the final round – the DPT emerging from their ten years of having been made to languish in the Bardo (purgatory) could very well curdle the milk for them.

Others think that the Southern voters will be the king makers given their astuteness and remarkable capability to think collectively - they think objectively while the rest of the Bhutanese tend to be sentimental about their choices.

As for me, I remain unimpressed – for me it would be nothing more than a goat in place of a sheep, or vise-versa. As long as the Captain of the Ship has the rudder firmly within His grip, things should trot along reasonably OK. My worry is something else.

In 2018 when rumor was rife that Dasho Chhewang Rinzin, the incumbent Managing Director of DGPC was joining politics, I gawked. I promptly went to see him. Sitting across the table and sipping black tea, I asked him:

“I understand that Dasho is joining politics. Is that true?”

He said; “Yes, you heard it right - I am told that such a rumor is doing the rounds in certain circles.”

“Are you? But why? I mean, look behind you. The Bura Marp and the Patang hanging behind you are the symbols of the highest honor any person can hope for. What more can you hope to achieve? What greater honor can there be – above and beyond that which you are already decorated with?

I agree that we need good and capable people in the political arena. But that is not to say that the bureaucracy should be drained of them. We need equally capable and dedicated people in the civil service – after all you are the ones who will implement the plans and programs conceived by the political leadership. We need people with strong character in the civil service – people who have the wherewithal to implement and carry forward the plans and programs; people who can ably keep the politicians in the straight and the narrow.

Why is it important that the smartest and the brightest must join politics? Isn't the bureaucracy important?

Afterall, when the dream merchants have dusted and gone – when the winning horse has galloped away with the booty, you will still be around - to try and mop up the bloodied floor and pick up the litter of carcasses - to give hope that there will be another day – a new day when renewed attempts can be made to mend and patch the broken promises – when new dreams can be dreamed, if only to be broken, yet again.

Is It A Forgery Or Is It A Forgery?

Hi Kris,

Thanks …..

Your classification of “FORGERIES” is rather intriguing for me – in the sense that, in the context of Bhutanese coins, what exactly is a forgery? From what I understood is that forgery is:

“The action of forging a copy or imitation of a document, signature, banknote or work of art”.

My understanding is that Bhutan’s coining journey began as a limited forgery – right from the first coinage. In some cases, they were exact copies of the Koch Narayani. From what is apparent is that Bhutan continued to forge some select Narayanis right to the early part of 1900’s.

Silver Half Rupee of Rajendra Narayan of Koch Kingdom: 1770-1772. This coin has a distinctive (X) on its reverse. The Raja was put on the Koch Kingdom throne by Bhutan. This is one of the coins forged by Bhutan. But it may not qualify as a forgery because Bhutan issued the coin mostly in copper, while all the Koch Kingdom’s coins were hammered in silver.

Also, please note the following interesting revelation:

The East India Company accuses Bhutan of producing spurious Narayanis

From the above, the East India Company that ruled most of India during the period under reference believed that Bhutan was forging Narayanis. They were wrong – I believe that Bhutan was actually hammering away real Narayanis using dies acquired forcibly from Koch Kingdom. Now, what is not clear is whether the Bhutanese were aware that they were committing forgeries – or they believed that they were producing money for use in trade with the people in the southern borders of Bhutan, as legal tender. Whatever the case may be, the act would still tantamount to forgery – whether done knowingly or unknowingly!

As one of the recognized authorities on Bhutanese coinage you would have noticed that it sometimes becomes difficult to distinguish the Bhutanese coins from that of Narayanis. To me only very few coins can truly be said to be Bhutanese - authenticated by the all-Bhutanese motifs on the coins.

Under the circumstance, I am not sure that any one coin verity can be said to be a forgery – because we do not know if those were coined by unauthorized persons, or were hammered by a ruling Je/Desi/Poenlop/Dzongpoen. Even more confusing, can we pass off a complete forgery as a legit coin - just because it was coined by a legitimate authority?

What do you think?

Bye and take care

Yeshey